Lot Essay
Cf. Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Thames and Hudson, London, 1984, page 81
.jpg?w=1)
From 1800 to circa 1910, the reigning form in tiara design was the Kokoshnik, a style derivative of 16th and 17th century Russian court wear. It consisted of a tapering band which was open to the back and at its widest to the front. Just prior to World War I, fashion designers, Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet in particular, began to advocate a new form - the bandeau - which was sometimes surmounted by a "pseudo-Oriental" aigrette, as in the present tiara.
The bandeau harks back to the most ancient and timeless form of head adornment. It recalls the hairbands of antique civilizations, such as the ferronnière, a forehead ornament consisting of a ribbon with a jewel to the center, which enjoyed popularity during the Renaissance. A lovely example is shown in a portrait by Leonardo de Vinci, "La Ferronnière", located in Cracow, Poland.
This diadem is a splendid example of early 20th century bandeaus and typifies the widespread Indian influence of the turban ornament and the patterns of textiles and tendrils from Mughal miniatures.
AN EXCEPTIONAL BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AIGRETTE BANDEAU, BY CARTIER
Details
AN EXCEPTIONAL BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AIGRETTE BANDEAU, BY CARTIER
Designed as a circular-cut diamond openwork tapered band with tulip-shaped spacers, collet-set detail and scrolled terminals, to the line of seven graduated diamond-set cartouches, each with a central old European-cut diamond and shield-shaped dividers, surmounted by a lancet aigrette fastener, circa 1900, 6½ ins. diameter, with French assay mark, with a Cartier original fitted case
By Cartier
Designed as a circular-cut diamond openwork tapered band with tulip-shaped spacers, collet-set detail and scrolled terminals, to the line of seven graduated diamond-set cartouches, each with a central old European-cut diamond and shield-shaped dividers, surmounted by a lancet aigrette fastener, circa 1900, 6½ ins. diameter, with French assay mark, with a Cartier original fitted case
By Cartier
Sale Room Notice
Please note that this lot is accompanied by a certifcate of authenticity no. GE99-465 from Cartier Joailliers confirming that it was made by Cartier, Paris