Breguet. An extremely fine and unique 'Souscription Set' of 18K pink gold and platinum watches, comprising a minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with phases of the moon and a self-winding openface keyless lever watch with instantaneous calendar, power reserve and phases of the moon

BREGUET'S FIRST SOUSCRIPTION SET EVER MADE - NO. 1

SIGNED BREGUET, NO. 1, MANUFACTURED IN 1991

Details

Breguet. An extremely fine and unique 'Souscription Set' of 18K pink gold and platinum watches, comprising a minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with phases of the moon and a self-winding openface keyless lever watch with instantaneous calendar, power reserve and phases of the moon
Signed Breguet, No. 1, manufactured in 1991
The wristwatch with cal. 189.10 12''' skeletonized nickel-finished lever movement, 24 jewels, monometallic balance with Breguet balance spring, minute repeating on two polished steel hammers onto two gongs, the engine-turned silvered gold dial with Roman numerals on blank chapter ring, secret signature to both sides of VI, blued steel Breguet hands, three subsidiary dials indicating month combined with leap year indicator, day and date, aperture for phases of the moon with lunar calendar, the heavy circular pink gold case with platinum rims, ribbed band, glazed display back, repeating slide in the band, 18K pink gold Breguet buckle.
The pocket watch with cal. 90 22''' gilt brass lever movement wound either automatically or manually, 28 jewels, monometallic balance with parachute on the top pivot, Breguet balance spring, the platinum self-winding weight pivoted on the edge of the movement, the unidirectional winding automatically disconnected when fully wound, the engine-turned silvered gold dial with Roman numerals on blank chapter ring, secret signature to both sides of XII, blued steel Breguet hands, fan-shaped aperture for the 45 hours power reserve indicator, aperture for phases of the moon combined with lunar calendar, subsidiary seconds and aperture for the instantaneous date, the heavy pink gold case with platinum rims, ribbed band, glazed display back, both cases, dials and movements signed and numbered
37 mm. and 62 mm. diams. (2)

Provenance

The Art of Breguet, Habsburg Geneva, 14 April 1991, lot 203.

Lot Essay

This Souscription set is accompanied by Breguet originally fitted polished walnut casket, lined in paisley pattern fabric and equipped with an electrical winding facility for the wristwatch. The lockable drawer below contains a gilt magnifying glass, a gilt screwdriver, two gold setting pins, one with a short length of chain, a gold chain for the pocket watch, a polishing stick and a spare Breguet black leather strap. Furthermore delivered with the outer cardboard packaging.

The present lot is the only example of a "Souscription" set cased in pink gold and platinum and is furthermore the very first "Souscription" set ever produced, specially made for the "The Art of Breguet" auction in Geneva in 1991.

These sets were made in a strictly limited series of 300 examples, available in pink, white or yellow gold or platinum.

The unique idea of the Souscription watch was first conceived by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1794 during the French Revolution as a method to remain financially stable. A buyer could do a down payment of 25 for a watch of a limited series, with the balance due upon delivery. In this manner, Breguet watches became more accessible and the payments in advance helped finance the development of other projects.

The pocket watch accompanying the set is a replication of Breguet's perpetuelle watch invented in 1791.

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