Swiss. A fine and attractive silver gilt, enamel and pearl-set centre seconds watch with Tixier calibre and Jacot duplex escapement, made for the Chinese market
THE PROPERTY OF A LADY AN EXCEPTIONAL COLLECTION OF HIGHLY IMPORTANT WATCHES MADE FOR THE CHINESE MARKET From their first arrival in China around 1700, lavishly decorated watches manufactured for the Far East took incontestably a prominent position in the league of the most sumptuous timepieces ever made, highly coveted treasures, guarded like gold by their fortunate owners ever since. By the late 18th century, Chinese patrons requested only superlative watches, featuring finely decorated movements and also complications including repeating, music or automatons. To satisfy their desire for aesthetics, the cases had to be finely enamelled with motifs representing nature or classical scenes, set with pearls and precious stones. Many of these marvels were made for the Imperial Palace in Beijing where they can be admired still today. Often lost over the centuries and in particular during the tumultuous times in China, notably the first opium war in 1840 followed by the occupation of Beijing, the second opium war and the abdication of the last Emperor in 1912, to name just some, the appearance of even a single "survivor" of this extremely scarce species is always greeted enthusiastically by the connoisseurs. The discovery of such a complete group as the present collection however, comprising the different styles made for the export to China such as matching pairs, gold and enamelled watches as well as silver gilt and enamel examples, is doubtlessly a sensational event. The majority of the watches have been acquired by the present owner and her late husband, sharing the same passion for decorative arts, during their repeated journeys to the Orient between the late 1950s and 1970s. Until their consignment for this auction in spring of 2012, these exceptional pieces had been safely locked away, the majority now making their first appearance at public auction. The private provenance is highlighted by the wonderful, entirely honest condition of the watches, some even still retaining the original presentation boxes as well as matching keys. This extraordinary collection is distinguished by the highly impressive and comprehensive selection of timepieces made between the early and the mid-19th century for the Chinese market by the most celebrated watchmakers of the time specialized in this particular domain, notably Piguet & Meylan, Vaucher, Bovet, Ilbery and Clerc. The enamel miniatures are equally of supreme quality and fineness, executed by Geneva's most talented enamellists such as the celebrated Jean-François-Victor Dupont. Distinguished by their outstanding quality, rarity and decorativeness, the watches are epitomes for finest watchmaking, case making and enamelling, fields which significantly contributed to the international fame of Swiss horologists and enamellers. Of particular interest to the collector are undoubtedly the two pairs of duplex watches distinguished by the mirror-inverted enamel motifs and the remarkably rare element of identical numbers, one signed Vaucher, Fleurier, one signed Bovet, Fleurier; the Ilbery timepiece decorated with an enamel miniature signed by Dupont; the superb quarter repeating watch by Piguet et Meylan and its outstanding enamel scene attributed to Lissignol; the unusual "Mandarin Duck" decorated watch signed Bovet London and the impressive quarter repeating watch and its enamel miniature after Fragonard, just to name the perhaps most flagrant examples. Aficionados will certainly appreciate that some of these timepieces were serviced in a most professional manner between 1961 and 1962 by the celebrated watchmaker Louis Cottier of Carouge, Geneva, best known for his invention of the world time system. A photocopy of his hand-written invoice dated 18 January 1962 is available. Last but not least mention must be made of the original letters, hand-written by Louis Bovet and his friend Louis Auguste Jeanneret, all addressed to Georges E. Guillaume. Dated between 1837, year of the arrival of Louis Bovet in Canton, and 1855, his return to Switzerland, the letters narrate their day-to-day life particularly also during the first Opium War, their worries, sorrows and joys, giving a fascinating insight of the years spent in Canton. The lot contains moreover Alphonse Bovet's request dated 1853 for a visa for Austria and Lombardy, needed for a complaisance journey to Piedmont and Italy. A genuinely sensational discovery, this exceptional collection represents one of the exceedingly rare opportunities to add true horological treasures to any discerning collection.
Swiss. A fine and attractive silver gilt, enamel and pearl-set centre seconds watch with Tixier calibre and Jacot duplex escapement, made for the Chinese market

UNSIGNED, NO. 4372, CIRCA 1850

Details
Swiss. A fine and attractive silver gilt, enamel and pearl-set centre seconds watch with Tixier calibre and Jacot duplex escapement, made for the Chinese market
Unsigned, no. 4372, circa 1850
Tixier calibre gilt-finished finely chased and engraved scroll decorated cut-out movement, Jacot-type duplex escapement, glazed display cuvette, white enamel dial, Roman numerals, centre seconds, circular case, ribbed band, pearl-set bezel, rim, pendant and bow, back decorated with a a finely painted polychrome enamel bouquet of flowers on green enamel ground, unsigned, outside rim of back and bezel numbered 4372
57.5 mm. diam.

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Dr. Nathalie Monbaron
Dr. Nathalie Monbaron

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Lot Essay

The present watch features the so-called "Tixier" calibre, invented by the French watchmaker Jean Tixier who emigrated to Fleurier, Switzerland, in the mid-19th century. He designed a cut-out plate movement, often featuring centre seconds.

It is furthermore fitted with the "Jacot Duplex", also called "Chinese Duplex" escapement, invented around 1830 by Charles Edouard Jacot (1817-1897) who worked in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Locle, Baltimore and New York. He was the nephew of Abraham Louis Perrelet, and like his celebrated uncle, a prolific inventor and innovator. He is best known for his escapement work, particularly his invention of a modified duplex escapement with a jumping seconds hand. Known as the "Jacot Duplex", it was used extensively in watches made for the Chinese market.

In The Country Life Book of Watches, T.P. Camerer Cuss describes the escapement as a form of duplex escapement invented by C.E. Jacot in 1830. It was commonly used for watches exported from Fleurier to China. The locking teeth are double, thus resembling a fork.

This escapement allows the central seconds hand to advance each second with a jumping motion, giving the impression that the watch is as precise as a precision regulator which markes the seconds. It obtains dead seconds with a movement oscillating at 14,400 vibrations/hour, with no additional mechanism. It is in fact a triple dead beat escapement derived from the duplex escapement.

Louis-Benjamin Audemars in collaboration with his teacher Philippe Samuel Meylan manufactured around 1835 a highly complicated experimental gold watch featuring, amongst others, the "Chinese" ruby duplex escapement after Jacot. The watch allowed the measuring of three independent periods of time simultaneously.

For a detailed description of the "Jacot Duplex" escapement and an illustration of the large Tixier calibre see The Mirror of Seduction - Prestigious pairs of "Chinese" Watches, Patek Philippe Museum, 2010, p. 154, pl. 8, and p. 162.

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