One of the most innovative jewels ever created, the 'Zip' necklace is an iconic design of Van Cleef & Arpels. Legend has it that the Duchess of Windsor asked Renée Puissant, daughter of Alfred Van Cleef and Creative Director of the jewellery house from 1926 to 1942, to create for her a jewelled zip fastener to wear with her evening gowns.
Although the patent was registered in 1938, it was not before World War II was over that the first 'Zip' necklace was actually produced. Capturing the spirit of the time and the 'Couture' style of the 1950s, the 'Zip' necklace is also a staggering technical achievement. The upper part of the necklace can be detached, the necklace is then 'zipped' into a bracelet, the gold thread tassel hanging on the side of the arm.
Few of these versatile jewels were made during the 1950s, which certainly explain why less than 10 have ever appeared at auction. Van Cleef & Arpels has recently launched a new collection of modern 'Zip' necklaces (see lot 321), celebrating this incredible piece of jewellery, the perfect link between 'Haute Joaillerie' and 'Haute Couture'.