Patek Philippe. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquered dial and luminous numerals
Patek Philippe. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquered dial and luminous numerals

SIGNED PATEK PHILIPPE & CIE, GENÈVE, REF. 96, MOVEMENT NO. 805'199, CASE NO. 613'402, MOVEMENT MANUFACTURED IN 1922 AND COMPLETED WITH CURRENT CASE IN 1936

Details
Patek Philippe. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquered dial and luminous numerals
Signed Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref. 96, movement no. 805'199, case no. 613'402, movement manufactured in 1922 and completed with current case in 1936
Cal. 12''' mechanical movement, 15 jewels, black lacquered dial, luminous Arabic numerals, luminous hands, outer railway minute divisions, engine-turned subsidiary seconds, ircular case, flat bezel, snap on back, 18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle, case, dial and movement signed
31 mm. diam.

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Sabine Kegel
Sabine Kegel

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Lot Essay

With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1922 and its subsequent sale on 27 June 1923. The Extract states that the original case was replaced with the present case with the number 613'402 during a servicing in the Patek Philippe workshops in 1936.

The present watch is special and delights in two ways: first, it is fresh to the market, secondly, it is the only reference 96 to have appeared at auction to date featuring this black "military-style" dial.
Patek Philippe reference 96 was available from the early 1930s. While the movement number of this watch precedes the appearance of the actual reference by ten years, this watch must be considered legitimate due to the Extract issued by Patek Philippe for it, confirming that the original case was exchanged during a servicing. This may be also the explanation for the unusual and possibly unique dial used on this reference.

While about a dozen reference 96 watches with black dial have been offered in public, most of them bear applied indices, no more than two bear Arabic numerals and only one, the present watch, features luminous large painted "military-style" hour markers.

Available in all metals, Patek Philippe's reference 96 is probably one of the company's most iconic watches. When introduced in 1932, its timeless case proportions struck a note and in many ways this first Calatrava model inspired generations of watches afterwards. Popular and in production for four decades, the case incorporates design elements that one associates with Bauhaus, late Art Deco and modernism. In essence an emblem of the 1930s, its subtle elegance delights the eye and its flat smooth form makes for both practical and comfortable wearing.

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