Lot Essay
Helena Rubinstein was born in Cracow, Poland, in 1870. At eighteen years old she moved to Australia where the seed of her cosmetic empire was sown with a single face cream and an obsession to protect her fair complexion from the unkindness of the sun. At a time where career opportunities were extremely limited for women, Helena created a successful enterprise in Melbourne, which she later expanded to London, Paris, New York and all over the United States of America.
An accomplished businesswoman, philanthropist and patron of the arts, Helena Rubinstein's name has become synonymous to beauty and style. She dedicated her life to all forms of beauty and had a strong passion for jewellery, the purchases of which were often inspired by heated arguments with her lovers resulting in the acquisition of what she called her 'quarrel' jewellery(1). Her jewellery collection refected her complex and strong personality, mainly composed of pieces from the 30's and 40's; she also acquired 19th century jewellery and some unique and particular pieces from all over the world. By the end of her life, her extraordinary collection exceeded more than 180 pieces. All was catalogued and kept preciously in a cabinet organized by alphabetical order. Helena Rubinstein stipulated in her will her wish that the majority of her collection should be auctioned.
In her autobiography, she refected that 'Although I no longer need the added courage that handsome jewellery once gave me (it was not easy being a hard-working woman in a man's world many years ago), I am aware that the wearing of exotic jewellery has become associated in many people's minds with the "image" of Helena Rubinstein, a mark of my identity, so to speak. And since I shall always love beautiful things, I feel I might as well enjoy wearing those I have'(2).
(1) S. Papi and A. Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, Thames & Hudson, London, pp. 194
(2) S. Papi and A. Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, Thames & Hudson, London, pp. 198
An accomplished businesswoman, philanthropist and patron of the arts, Helena Rubinstein's name has become synonymous to beauty and style. She dedicated her life to all forms of beauty and had a strong passion for jewellery, the purchases of which were often inspired by heated arguments with her lovers resulting in the acquisition of what she called her 'quarrel' jewellery(1). Her jewellery collection refected her complex and strong personality, mainly composed of pieces from the 30's and 40's; she also acquired 19th century jewellery and some unique and particular pieces from all over the world. By the end of her life, her extraordinary collection exceeded more than 180 pieces. All was catalogued and kept preciously in a cabinet organized by alphabetical order. Helena Rubinstein stipulated in her will her wish that the majority of her collection should be auctioned.
In her autobiography, she refected that 'Although I no longer need the added courage that handsome jewellery once gave me (it was not easy being a hard-working woman in a man's world many years ago), I am aware that the wearing of exotic jewellery has become associated in many people's minds with the "image" of Helena Rubinstein, a mark of my identity, so to speak. And since I shall always love beautiful things, I feel I might as well enjoy wearing those I have'(2).
(1) S. Papi and A. Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, Thames & Hudson, London, pp. 194
(2) S. Papi and A. Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, Thames & Hudson, London, pp. 198