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Lot Essay
With Henry Moser & Co. fitted presentation box.
The present watch is an exceptionally fine example of one of Breguet's timepieces made for the Ottoman market, distinguished by an impressive number of rare details, the provenance certainly one of the most important feature: although described as "Montre Répétition Turque" in the records of Breguet, it was sold by his Saint Petersburg branch apparently to Tsar Alexander I on 31 December 1810. Putting into context the political situation at the time, it becomes evident that the watch was not destined for the Tsar, who himself was a faithful and important client of Breguet, but meant as means to end the Russo-Turkish War raging since 1806. Alexander knew that a military conflict with Napoleon was imminent and feared a war on two fronts, against the Ottoman Empire and France. He was anxious to end the war with Turkey which would allow him to deploy more troops against Napoleon. On 1 June 1810, the Russian Secretary of War wrote to General Kamensky, commander-in-chief on the Turkish front, "At the present moment, the well-being of Russia solely depends on the peace with Turkey" (1). On 14 July of the same year, Tsar Alexander I personally reiterated the sentiment "The quick ending of the war with Turkey is of great importance to us" (2).
It is unknown if the watch was bought as a present for the ruling Sultan Mahmud II in the event of a peace treaty, or for one of his enemies, for example Mulla Pasha, the commander of Vidin, an important fortification on the bank of the Danube river, with whom General Kutuzov (General Kamensky's replacement) had secretly opened negotiations (3). In any case, and regrettably for Tsar Alexander I, Sultan Mahmud II was well aware of the imminent conflict between Russia and France, and was desirous to win the war (4), thus annihilating Alexander's hope for peace.
At this point the watch was no longer needed and was eventually returned to Breguet by General Lewascheff (or Levasheff), the adjutant of Alexander I, who took in exchange watch no. 3260, an equally remarkable repeater with high precision lever escapement, but aesthetically very much in Western style (later in the Becher collection, illustrated in George Daniel's The Art of Breguet, p. 245, pl. 277a-c).
Watch no. 1795 was serviced, the dial was exchanged, and it was sold under new number 4384 (description in the books of Breguet reading "No. 4384, former no. 1795, Turkish repeating watch, case and étui gold and red enamel, gold cuvette with equation, Duplex escapement) at a substantial profit, on 7 February 1825 to M. Villaret de Joyeuse, a son of the French Admiral Louis Thomas Villaret de Joyeuse.
Abraham-Louis Breguet's most spectacular timepieces were those destined for the Ottoman Empire, captivating by their opulently enamelled and brightly coloured decoration, ostentatiously contrasting with the neo-classical, often almost understated design of his traditional watches. Contrary to common belief, Breguet's most expensive watch ever sold was not the ultra-complicated "Marie-Antoinette" but rather his "Sympathique" clock no. 758 covered in precious stones, worth 35,000 francs, chosen by Napoleon as a gift to mark the instatement of Sultan Mahmud II (5) - illustrating the enormous significance of the Turkish market for Breguet. The Sultan was so delighted by the present that he assigned Breguet's representative Leroy with the maintenance of all the timepieces in his palace.
Watch and clock gift exchange between the Arab World and the West began in 799AD when Caliph Harun al-Rashid presented the first Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne, with a complicated automaton water clock. It had 12 brass balls that struck hours by falling on a cymbal and 12 carved horsemen which came parading out of little windows (6).
750 years later, from 1548, the clock and watch gifts were flowing in the opposite direction - from Holy Roman Emperors to Ottoman's Sultans (7). The Ottomans quickly developed their own taste for watches which, on the highest level, were required to be decorated with enamels. This market first belonged to the British; George Prior, Markham Markwick, both of London, produced thousands, if not tens of thousands, watches destined for Constantinople. This lasted until Breguet took the Ottoman market by storm for himself. Breguet's timepieces became the most prized in the Ottoman Court. Consequently, they also became the favorite presents for high Turkish officials including the Sultan.
Emmanuel Breguet in his definitive work on the subject, Breguet, Watchmakers since 1775, writes "Breguet's wares were either sold or presented as gifts to the most important dignitaries of the Ottoman Empire" (p. 230). King of Spain, Joseph I presented a Breguet watch there in 1808, Napoleon in 1812, as well as Prince Ferdinand, the future King Ferdinand VII, and to Prince Charles, the future Charles X of France, both also in 1812, and Prince Friedrich-Wilhelm-Ludwig of Prussia in 1814. No wonder Alexander chose Breguet's watch as a present for the sultan during the days when the peace with him was so crucial to the very existence of the Russian Empire which was at the time threatened by the mighty power of Napoleon.
The peace treaty was signed in Bucharest on 28 May 1812, just 13 days before Napoleon's invasion of Russia. If it had not been signed, the faith of Russia and all of Europe might have been completely different. It is tempting to speculate to what extent the watch played a role in Alexander's plans for this peace.
Watch no. 1795/4384 is the perfect example of one of Breguet's extraordinary Turkish market watches. Its production required more than five years, starting in 1804 (delivery of the ébauche on 27 January 1805) and ending on 30 March 1810 when its enamellist Lallemand had finished the cases.
The lavishly decorated cases demonstrate the superb craftsmanship of 19th century watchmaking and enamelling, an art in which Breguet unquestionably excelled. The two cases are conceived to be used either "open" and showing the dial or "closed" showing the back of the inner case, hence the designation "Cabriolet". The cases are of such outstandingly high quality, allowing the inner case to fit so perfectly into the outer case, that the two sides show virtually no difference, neither visible nor tangible, when used as hunter case. Only an exceedingly small number of Breguet's best Turkish market watches were equipped with this case style.
It is fascinating to follow the path of the creation of the cases for the present watch: the inner case, in 20K gold, another rare feature only used in Breguet's elite timepieces, was made by Pierre Benjamin Tavernier, one of Breguet's best early workers and more frequently used by him than any other case maker, and delivered on 28 December 1808. On 19 April 1809 he had finished the outer case, also in 20K gold. On 6 June, Tardé had completed the equation of time chart, and on 5 September, the case spring was made. The crystal was supplied by Roger on 19 October. On 31 January 1810, Sautter completed the engravings on both cases, a very costly work. On 28 February, Tavernier finished the guillochage or engine-turning of the case backs, another expensive task, and finally Lallemand completed the enamelling on 30 March 1810. Breguet's total cost for the cases alone was 980 francs, much higher than the price of his average gold repeating watch.
The price of the duplex escapement of the watch is even more astonishing, exceeding 500 francs, whereas the standard ruby cylinder escapement would cost Breguet an average of 66 francs. This enormous fee becomes understandable when taking into consideration a number of aspects involved: Breguet's enamelled watches with duplex escapement and chronometer balances are per se rare but particularly when used in a Turkish-style watch: only two are known to exist to date, the present no. 1795/4384, and no. 936 sold on 29 December 1863, 40 years after Breguet's death, to the Viceroy of Egypt.
The duplex escapement of this watch is a highly unusual variant with jewelled impulse and locking faces, reserved for special watches or special clients, such as watch no. 2658 sold to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples. Both the latter and the present watch feature double escape wheels made of steel and superbly polished, as all the other steel parts in the movement. The balance is of the same style that Breguet used for his chronometers, with platinum mean-time adjustment screws as found in his early Earnshaw-type balances, as opposed to the steel version of later examples. The sliding weights are necessary for the continuous adjustment of the temperature compensation. Unlike the screw compensation system, the sliding weights allow adjusting of even the smallest variations in temperature. It is virtually the same balance as in Breguet's pocket chronometer no. 4216, now in the British Museum (Inv. No. 1958,1201.1849).
The enamel dial of the present watch features the secret signature No. 4384 Breguet in Breguet's typical style.
The equation of time chart on the cuvette indicating solar time was a popular feature in Breguet's high quality watches for the Turkish market, a further indication that the watch was bought as a present for an Ottoman dignitary of highest importance. Other examples of Breguet's Turkish watches with equation of time chart include nos. 2607, 2614, 2890, 2916, 3814, 4255 and 4384.
Only one other comparable Turkish market watch has appeared in public in recent years, no. 2090, sold at Polly Auctions on 9 December 2011 for RMB4,370,000 (nearly US$700,000), now in the distinguished Musée Breguet. It is strikingly similar to the present watch, featuring the same convertible case style, also enamelled by Lallemand with the same pattern. The key difference between the two watches however is their timekeeping quality: whereas no. 2090 was fitted with a regular ruby cylinder escapement and plain monometallic balance (cost 88 francs), the present watch was made as a precision timekeeper with special escapement and compensation balance, costing six times mores (500 francs).
Following its return to Breguet in 1825, watch no. 1795/4384 continued being appreciated by several distinguished private collectors and has spent the last nearly 100 years in two important Swedish collections.
It now represents the exceedingly rare opportunity for the discerning collector to own one of Breguet's rarest, most attractive and historically important timepieces ever offered in public.
(1) Russo-Turkish war of 1806-1812 by General Alexander Mikhailovsky-Danilevsky, St. Petersburg, 1843, Vol. II, p. 24 (translated by A. Mikaberidze)
(2) Alexander I to General Kamensky, op, cit., p. 31
(3) Virginia Asan, Ottoman Wars 1700-1870, New York, 2013, p. 274
(4) Russo-Turkish war of 1806-1812 by General Alexander Mikhailovsky-Danilevsky, St. Petersburg, 1843, Vol. II, p. 95
(5) Breguet - Watchmakers since 1775 by Emmanuel Breguet, p. 234
(6) André Clot Harun al-Rashid, Paris, 1986, p. 97
(7) Bertold Spuler, Die europäische Diplomatie in Konstantinopel bis zum Frieden von Belgrad, Breslau, 1935
The present watch is an exceptionally fine example of one of Breguet's timepieces made for the Ottoman market, distinguished by an impressive number of rare details, the provenance certainly one of the most important feature: although described as "Montre Répétition Turque" in the records of Breguet, it was sold by his Saint Petersburg branch apparently to Tsar Alexander I on 31 December 1810. Putting into context the political situation at the time, it becomes evident that the watch was not destined for the Tsar, who himself was a faithful and important client of Breguet, but meant as means to end the Russo-Turkish War raging since 1806. Alexander knew that a military conflict with Napoleon was imminent and feared a war on two fronts, against the Ottoman Empire and France. He was anxious to end the war with Turkey which would allow him to deploy more troops against Napoleon. On 1 June 1810, the Russian Secretary of War wrote to General Kamensky, commander-in-chief on the Turkish front, "At the present moment, the well-being of Russia solely depends on the peace with Turkey" (1). On 14 July of the same year, Tsar Alexander I personally reiterated the sentiment "The quick ending of the war with Turkey is of great importance to us" (2).
It is unknown if the watch was bought as a present for the ruling Sultan Mahmud II in the event of a peace treaty, or for one of his enemies, for example Mulla Pasha, the commander of Vidin, an important fortification on the bank of the Danube river, with whom General Kutuzov (General Kamensky's replacement) had secretly opened negotiations (3). In any case, and regrettably for Tsar Alexander I, Sultan Mahmud II was well aware of the imminent conflict between Russia and France, and was desirous to win the war (4), thus annihilating Alexander's hope for peace.
At this point the watch was no longer needed and was eventually returned to Breguet by General Lewascheff (or Levasheff), the adjutant of Alexander I, who took in exchange watch no. 3260, an equally remarkable repeater with high precision lever escapement, but aesthetically very much in Western style (later in the Becher collection, illustrated in George Daniel's The Art of Breguet, p. 245, pl. 277a-c).
Watch no. 1795 was serviced, the dial was exchanged, and it was sold under new number 4384 (description in the books of Breguet reading "No. 4384, former no. 1795, Turkish repeating watch, case and étui gold and red enamel, gold cuvette with equation, Duplex escapement) at a substantial profit, on 7 February 1825 to M. Villaret de Joyeuse, a son of the French Admiral Louis Thomas Villaret de Joyeuse.
Abraham-Louis Breguet's most spectacular timepieces were those destined for the Ottoman Empire, captivating by their opulently enamelled and brightly coloured decoration, ostentatiously contrasting with the neo-classical, often almost understated design of his traditional watches. Contrary to common belief, Breguet's most expensive watch ever sold was not the ultra-complicated "Marie-Antoinette" but rather his "Sympathique" clock no. 758 covered in precious stones, worth 35,000 francs, chosen by Napoleon as a gift to mark the instatement of Sultan Mahmud II (5) - illustrating the enormous significance of the Turkish market for Breguet. The Sultan was so delighted by the present that he assigned Breguet's representative Leroy with the maintenance of all the timepieces in his palace.
Watch and clock gift exchange between the Arab World and the West began in 799AD when Caliph Harun al-Rashid presented the first Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne, with a complicated automaton water clock. It had 12 brass balls that struck hours by falling on a cymbal and 12 carved horsemen which came parading out of little windows (6).
750 years later, from 1548, the clock and watch gifts were flowing in the opposite direction - from Holy Roman Emperors to Ottoman's Sultans (7). The Ottomans quickly developed their own taste for watches which, on the highest level, were required to be decorated with enamels. This market first belonged to the British; George Prior, Markham Markwick, both of London, produced thousands, if not tens of thousands, watches destined for Constantinople. This lasted until Breguet took the Ottoman market by storm for himself. Breguet's timepieces became the most prized in the Ottoman Court. Consequently, they also became the favorite presents for high Turkish officials including the Sultan.
Emmanuel Breguet in his definitive work on the subject, Breguet, Watchmakers since 1775, writes "Breguet's wares were either sold or presented as gifts to the most important dignitaries of the Ottoman Empire" (p. 230). King of Spain, Joseph I presented a Breguet watch there in 1808, Napoleon in 1812, as well as Prince Ferdinand, the future King Ferdinand VII, and to Prince Charles, the future Charles X of France, both also in 1812, and Prince Friedrich-Wilhelm-Ludwig of Prussia in 1814. No wonder Alexander chose Breguet's watch as a present for the sultan during the days when the peace with him was so crucial to the very existence of the Russian Empire which was at the time threatened by the mighty power of Napoleon.
The peace treaty was signed in Bucharest on 28 May 1812, just 13 days before Napoleon's invasion of Russia. If it had not been signed, the faith of Russia and all of Europe might have been completely different. It is tempting to speculate to what extent the watch played a role in Alexander's plans for this peace.
Watch no. 1795/4384 is the perfect example of one of Breguet's extraordinary Turkish market watches. Its production required more than five years, starting in 1804 (delivery of the ébauche on 27 January 1805) and ending on 30 March 1810 when its enamellist Lallemand had finished the cases.
The lavishly decorated cases demonstrate the superb craftsmanship of 19th century watchmaking and enamelling, an art in which Breguet unquestionably excelled. The two cases are conceived to be used either "open" and showing the dial or "closed" showing the back of the inner case, hence the designation "Cabriolet". The cases are of such outstandingly high quality, allowing the inner case to fit so perfectly into the outer case, that the two sides show virtually no difference, neither visible nor tangible, when used as hunter case. Only an exceedingly small number of Breguet's best Turkish market watches were equipped with this case style.
It is fascinating to follow the path of the creation of the cases for the present watch: the inner case, in 20K gold, another rare feature only used in Breguet's elite timepieces, was made by Pierre Benjamin Tavernier, one of Breguet's best early workers and more frequently used by him than any other case maker, and delivered on 28 December 1808. On 19 April 1809 he had finished the outer case, also in 20K gold. On 6 June, Tardé had completed the equation of time chart, and on 5 September, the case spring was made. The crystal was supplied by Roger on 19 October. On 31 January 1810, Sautter completed the engravings on both cases, a very costly work. On 28 February, Tavernier finished the guillochage or engine-turning of the case backs, another expensive task, and finally Lallemand completed the enamelling on 30 March 1810. Breguet's total cost for the cases alone was 980 francs, much higher than the price of his average gold repeating watch.
The price of the duplex escapement of the watch is even more astonishing, exceeding 500 francs, whereas the standard ruby cylinder escapement would cost Breguet an average of 66 francs. This enormous fee becomes understandable when taking into consideration a number of aspects involved: Breguet's enamelled watches with duplex escapement and chronometer balances are per se rare but particularly when used in a Turkish-style watch: only two are known to exist to date, the present no. 1795/4384, and no. 936 sold on 29 December 1863, 40 years after Breguet's death, to the Viceroy of Egypt.
The duplex escapement of this watch is a highly unusual variant with jewelled impulse and locking faces, reserved for special watches or special clients, such as watch no. 2658 sold to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples. Both the latter and the present watch feature double escape wheels made of steel and superbly polished, as all the other steel parts in the movement. The balance is of the same style that Breguet used for his chronometers, with platinum mean-time adjustment screws as found in his early Earnshaw-type balances, as opposed to the steel version of later examples. The sliding weights are necessary for the continuous adjustment of the temperature compensation. Unlike the screw compensation system, the sliding weights allow adjusting of even the smallest variations in temperature. It is virtually the same balance as in Breguet's pocket chronometer no. 4216, now in the British Museum (Inv. No. 1958,1201.1849).
The enamel dial of the present watch features the secret signature No. 4384 Breguet in Breguet's typical style.
The equation of time chart on the cuvette indicating solar time was a popular feature in Breguet's high quality watches for the Turkish market, a further indication that the watch was bought as a present for an Ottoman dignitary of highest importance. Other examples of Breguet's Turkish watches with equation of time chart include nos. 2607, 2614, 2890, 2916, 3814, 4255 and 4384.
Only one other comparable Turkish market watch has appeared in public in recent years, no. 2090, sold at Polly Auctions on 9 December 2011 for RMB4,370,000 (nearly US$700,000), now in the distinguished Musée Breguet. It is strikingly similar to the present watch, featuring the same convertible case style, also enamelled by Lallemand with the same pattern. The key difference between the two watches however is their timekeeping quality: whereas no. 2090 was fitted with a regular ruby cylinder escapement and plain monometallic balance (cost 88 francs), the present watch was made as a precision timekeeper with special escapement and compensation balance, costing six times mores (500 francs).
Following its return to Breguet in 1825, watch no. 1795/4384 continued being appreciated by several distinguished private collectors and has spent the last nearly 100 years in two important Swedish collections.
It now represents the exceedingly rare opportunity for the discerning collector to own one of Breguet's rarest, most attractive and historically important timepieces ever offered in public.
(1) Russo-Turkish war of 1806-1812 by General Alexander Mikhailovsky-Danilevsky, St. Petersburg, 1843, Vol. II, p. 24 (translated by A. Mikaberidze)
(2) Alexander I to General Kamensky, op, cit., p. 31
(3) Virginia Asan, Ottoman Wars 1700-1870, New York, 2013, p. 274
(4) Russo-Turkish war of 1806-1812 by General Alexander Mikhailovsky-Danilevsky, St. Petersburg, 1843, Vol. II, p. 95
(5) Breguet - Watchmakers since 1775 by Emmanuel Breguet, p. 234
(6) André Clot Harun al-Rashid, Paris, 1986, p. 97
(7) Bertold Spuler, Die europäische Diplomatie in Konstantinopel bis zum Frieden von Belgrad, Breslau, 1935