Patek Philippe. A very fine and important stainless steel automatic wristwatch with pre-Nautilus period caliber 28-255 C movement, date and bracelet
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT wil… Read more PATEK PHILIPPENautilus 3700/11 "Earliest known"
Patek Philippe. A very fine and important stainless steel automatic wristwatch with pre-Nautilus period caliber 28-255 C movement, date and bracelet

Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, retailed by Gübelin, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/11, movement no. 1’302’492, case no. 539’163, the movement manufactured in 1973, encased in 1981

Details
Patek Philippe. A very fine and important stainless steel automatic wristwatch with pre-Nautilus period caliber 28-255 C movement, date and bracelet
Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, retailed by Gübelin, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/11, movement no. 1’302’492, case no. 539’163, the movement manufactured in 1973, encased in 1981
Movement: automatic, cal. 28-255 C, stamped with the Geneva seal, 36 jewels
Dial: ribbed black, applied white gold luminous baton numerals, luminous hands, window for date
Case: stainless steel two-part secured by four screws in the band
Signed: case, dial, movement, underside of bezel numbered 163, dial additionally signed by the retailer
Dimensions: 42 mm. diam. overall length of bracelet approximately 170 mm
With: stainless steel Nautilus bracelet with deployant clasp, Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the movement of the present watch in 1973, encased in 1981 and subsequent sale on 13th April 1982
Special Notice
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT will be charged at 8% on both the premium as well as the hammer price.

Lot Essay

A must-have for the serious Nautilus collector, the present reference 3700/11 “Jumbo” is an exceptionally rare and highly unusual piece in the production history of the Nautilus model. Featuring the retailer signature Gübelin of which only a handful of examples are known amongst the references 3700/1 and 3700/11, it also has the lowest case number of any publically known Nautilus 3700/11 and furthermore is fitted with an original caliber 28-255 C movement manufactured in 1973, thus pre-dating the Nautilus model itself, launched in 1976.

Given these facts, it is a distinct possibility that the present watch is one of the first, if not the very first example of reference 3700/11 to be made. To add further credence, the second “1” digit of the /11 stamped inside the case back is punched slightly differently to the rest of the reference number, leading to the assumption that the present watch is perhaps the very first Nautilus to be “christened” 3700/11.

The “prototype” feel is further underlined because it is fitted with one of the early period movements that were in Patek Philippe’s stock since before the introduction of the Nautilus model itself but had not been utilized. Patek Philippe had used the caliber 28-255 C in small numbers from 1972 for reference 3600 and its variants until the launch of the Nautilus in 1976. When the Nautilus was being designed the company found that the caliber 28-255 C was very suitable for this robust yet slim and elegant model which became one of Patek Philippe’s most enduring classics.

The new reference 3700/11 was introduced in 1981. It is essentially the same watch as the reference 3700/1 but was given the new sub-reference number /11 to coincide with the in-house manufactured Nautilus cases made in Patek Philippe’s Ateliers Réunis workshops. Formerly the cases were made by the Neuchâtel case maker Favre-Perret.

With the launch of the reference a narrower “second generation” bracelet with a width of 14 mm. was introduced. It had 16 fixed links and 8 removable links. Only approximately 1500 reference 3700/11 were produced in total, far fewer than the reference 3700/1.

Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120.

The caliber is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21K gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.

E. Gübelin
Gübelin was founded in 1854 and has always been a family enterprise. Located in Lucerne, Switzerland, the renowned company has designed and retailed superior quality watches and clocks ever since. Today, Gübelin has branches throughout Europe.

More from Rare Watches and a Rolex Afternoon

View All
View All