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The iconic architectural brooch motif was introduced by Cartier during the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes of 1925 in Paris. With brilliant simplicity, these diamond and platinum brooches depict a variety of structures, including temples, arches and pagodas. Vibrant and intense colors appear in many of Cartier’s designs at this time, however, the absence of color in this series emphasizes the chic and sophisticated focus on black and white, a prevalent trend of the era.Lot 218 is a fine example of this motif. The petite brooch, though drastically smaller in size than the architectural landmark it represents, has an unexpected grand appearance. Meticulously skilled diamond-cutters, like the masons responsible for building the triumphal arch, were tasked to cut and shape each diminutive stone to form the structure. With baguette-cut columns, French-cut accents and a single half moon-shaped central arch, the diamonds appear as though each is a keystone, locking the whole of the monument together. PROPERTY FROM A DISTINGUISHED AMERICAN COLLECTION
AN ART DECO DIAMOND ARCHITECTURAL BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Details
AN ART DECO DIAMOND ARCHITECTURAL BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Designed as the 'Marble Arch', set with single, old, baguette, half moon and French-cut diamonds, circa 1930, 1 9/16 ins., mounted in platinum
Signed Cartier, no. 2717588
Designed as the 'Marble Arch', set with single, old, baguette, half moon and French-cut diamonds, circa 1930, 1 9/16 ins., mounted in platinum
Signed Cartier, no. 2717588
Literature
Cf. F. Cologni, E. Nussbaum, Platinum by Cartier, Triumphs of the Jewelers' Art, New York, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1996, page 148