Patek Philippe. A Rare Stainless Steel and Gold Automatic Wristwatch with Date and Bracelet
The Property of a Lady
Patek Philippe. A Rare Stainless Steel and Gold Automatic Wristwatch with Date and Bracelet

Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, retailed by Beyer, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/11AJ, movement no. 1'310'894, case no. 2'808'806, manufactured in 1983

Details
Patek Philippe. A Rare Stainless Steel and Gold Automatic Wristwatch with Date and Bracelet
Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, retailed by Beyer, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/11AJ, movement no. 1'310'894, case no. 2'808'806, manufactured in 1983
Movement: cal. 28-255C, automatic, 36 jewels, signed
Dial: signed by maker and retailer
Case: two-part secured by four screws in the band, underside of the gold bezel numbered 806, hand-engraved Beyer serial number to the back of the lower left lug, 42 mm. wide, signed
With: stainless steel and gold Patek Philippe bracelet with deployant clasp, overall approximate length 180 mm., Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of the present watch with black matte ribbed dial, applied yellow gold indexes, tritium, bracelet in steel and gold in 1983 and its subsequent sale on 18 March 1985, original Beyer Chronometrie letter dated 8 May 2018 confirming that the present watch was sold by them.


Lot Essay

Fresh to the market and in very good original overall condition the present "Jumbo Nautilus" is offered by the daughter of the original owner who had acquired it in 1985 at the prestigious Beyer Chronometrie in Zurich, as confirmed by the signature on the dial and by Beyer Chronometrie. Furthermore the back of the lower left lug features the hand-engraved Beyer reference number for the watch.

Reference 3700/11 in stainless steel and gold is one of the rarest variants of this model, the rarity of this example enhanced by Beyer signature: only two other steel and gold references 3700/11 signed by the famous retailer are believed to have appeared in public to date.

The partnership between Patek Philippe and Beyer Chronometrie dates back to the Geneva-based manufacturer's earliest years. It is the longest-standing relationship forged by either company – and, since the Stern family took over Patek Philippe in 1932, one of the most personal: the two have always been connected by more than just business. And so Beyer Chronometrie – and Zurich – was awarded the honour in July 2011 of opening the first (and to-date only) retailer-managed Patek Philippe Boutique in Switzerland.

The Nautilus Water-Resistant Case Ref. 3700/1
The case patent design of the original Nautilus, reference 3700/1 was registered on 23 April 1976. The cases were made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle, from 1976 until 1980 when production was transferred to Patek Philippe's own Ateliers Réunis workshops. The water-resistant case comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. The reference 3700/1 was made in stainless steel, steel and gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold and platinum.

In 1980 Patek Philippe launched the manufacture of cases and bracelets in their Ateliers Réunis workshops and the Nautilus changed its reference number to the new ref. 3700-11. The new stainless steel used is called "Chrome-Nickel-Moybdenum steel" and the deployant clasp of the bracelet has been reduced to 16 mm., from 18 mm. of the previous reference.

Patek Philippe automatic movement caliber 28-255
Another of the many attractions of the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 for the watch aficionado is that from the very beginning it was fitted with what is generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibers – the 28-255. Based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 it is regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. It is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120.

The caliber is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21K gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
In 1981 to coincide with the launch of a new
Nautilus reference, the mid-size 3800/1A, Patek Philippe introduced its own new slim automatic caliber, the 335 SC with centre seconds feature.

For illustrations and descriptions of the Nautilus see Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Volume II; Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger and A Study of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3700 “Nautilus” by mstanga.

Beyer Chronometrie Zurich
Since its foundation in 1760, the prestigious firm has always been passed down from father to son, each a fully trained watchmaker. Beyer Chronometrie was the first shop in Switzerland specializing exclusively in watches, clocks and jewellery and has been retailing watches signed Patek Philippe for over 165 years. The firm is currently managed by René Beyer who represents the eight generation of the Beyer family.

The company also owns the renowned Clock and Watch Museum Beyer Zürich, one of the world's most important horological collections. It comprises some 500 pieces dating from 1400 BC to the present day.




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