One of the most innovative jewels ever created, the Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Zip’ necklace is an iconic design with an intriguing and storied history. Legend has it that during the 1930s the Duchess of Windsor, known as one of the world’s most elegant and fashionable ladies and a loyal customer of the Maison, asked Renée Puissant, daughter of Alfred Van Cleef and the house’s Creative Director between 1926-1942, to create a jeweled zip fastener to wear with her evening gowns. This request inspired the complicated design process that would take many years to come to fruition. Although the patent for the design was registered in 1938, it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented its first ‘Zip’ necklace.
Capturing the spirit and style of the 1950s, the 'Zip' necklace is not only a beautiful and versatile jewel, but also a staggering technical achievement. The upper part of the necklace can be detached and the remaining section then zipped up to form a bracelet, leaving the gold tassel hanging from one side. This versatility brings a sense of playfulness to the high jewelry design. Very few of these iconic jewels were made during the 1950s, making the few examples that do appear at auction highly coveted among collectors. The ‘Zip’ design has also graced several actresses, having been worn by Cate Blanchett, Hillary Swank, and Margot Robbie on red carpets, and by Eve Best when portraying the Duchess of Windsor in the movie The King's Speech. Still in demand over eighty years after its inception, the ‘Zip’ necklace’s ability to stand the test of time speaks to its innovative and glamorous design.