ROLEX. A FINE AND EXTREMLY RARE STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, BLACK GLOSS SWISS UNDERLINE SERVICE DIAL WITH SILVER 100M=330FT DEPTH RATING AND BRACELET
ROLEX. A FINE AND EXTREMLY RARE STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, BLACK GLOSS SWISS UNDERLINE SERVICE DIAL WITH SILVER 100M=330FT DEPTH RATING AND BRACELET
1 More
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT wil… Read more ROLEXSubmariner Ref. 5508 Swiss Underline Service Dial "James Bond"
ROLEX. A FINE AND EXTREMLY RARE STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, BLACK GLOSS SWISS UNDERLINE SERVICE DIAL WITH SILVER 100M=330FT DEPTH RATING AND BRACELET

SIGNED ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL, SUBMARINER, 100M=330FT, REF. 5508, CASE NO. 488’663, CIRCA 1959

Details
ROLEX. A FINE AND EXTREMLY RARE STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, BLACK GLOSS SWISS UNDERLINE SERVICE DIAL WITH SILVER 100M=330FT DEPTH RATING AND BRACELET
SIGNED ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL, SUBMARINER, 100M=330FT, REF. 5508, CASE NO. 488’663, CIRCA 1959
Movement: cal. 1530, automatic, 25 jewels, signed
Dial: signed
Case: screw back, inside case back stamped 5508, III.1958, 37.5 mm. diam., signed
With: stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet and deployant clasp stamped 3.60, overall length of approx. 200 mm.
Special Notice
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT will be charged at 7.7% on both the premium as well as the hammer price.

Lot Essay

Preserved in excellent original overall condition, the present timepiece is a very rare and highly attractive example of the Submariner ref. 5508.

As any Rolex enthusiast will recognize, the dial is the exceedingly rare “underline” version in superb original overall condition. Dating from around 1963, it is of almost equal rarity to as watch itself. The reverse is stamped Beyeler, one of the firm's dial suppliers, it was presumably fitted during a service. The “underline” found beneath the signature at 12 o’clock is a small but very significant detail that sets this dial apart, as is the wording “Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified” found as of around 1959. The “underline” is thought to signify the use of tritium for the luminous material and was placed on dials when Rolex transitioned from using radium to tritium around 1963-1964

The beauty of the present ref. 5508 timepiece is emphasized by the highly attractive condition of the black gloss dial with gilt printing, underline and Swiss signature to its bottom and beautifully discolored luminous material to the numerals. The case shows strong proportions and well-defined edges to the lugs. The 6 mm. winding crown and the bezel graduation are likewise correct for the model, with the first fifteen minutes indicated by individual strokes.

The present wristwatch shows a difference in its manufacture year of its parts: case of 1959, case back of 1958, bracelet of 1960 and service dial of 1963. Due to the lack of demand for these watches, the year of manufacture of all the parts is not necessarily identical. The various components were assembled just before delivery, so there is often a difference in the production year of the fully assembled wristwatch of up to 3 years.

In the movies Dr. No and Goldfinger, Sean Connery alias James Bond is wearing a Rolex Submariner. Since then, the early Submariner models without crown guard such as the present reference 5508 as well as references 6200, 6204 and others are also known as the "James Bond" models.

For detailed descriptions and illustrations of a similar reference 5508 see Rolex Submariner Story by Guido Mondani and Lele Ravagnani, pp. 42

More from Rare Watches

View All
View All