Rolex. An Extremely Fine and Very Early 18k Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Star Dial and Moon Phases
Rolex. An Extremely Fine and Very Early 18k Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Star Dial and Moon Phases
Rolex. An Extremely Fine and Very Early 18k Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Star Dial and Moon Phases
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Rolex. An Extremely Fine and Very Early 18k Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Star Dial and Moon Phases

Signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer, Ref. 6062, Case No. 579’781, Circa 1948

Details
Rolex. An Extremely Fine and Very Early 18k Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Star Dial and Moon Phases
Signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer, Ref. 6062, Case No. 579’781, Circa 1948
Movement: Automatic, Cal. 655,18 jewels
Dial: Matte silvered, applied luminous star and dagger numerals, luminous hands, apertures for day and month in English, outer blue date ring, moon phases combined with constant seconds
Case: 18k gold, screw back, screw-down crown, 35mm diam.
Buckle: Rolex 14k gold buckle

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Rebecca Ross
Rebecca Ross

Lot Essay

The present watch represents an extremely important discovery. Possibly the earliest Rolex reference 6062 ever produced, the present watch can be regarded as one which led the way for all examples of this reference to follow.

Of the 670 reference 6062 produced in yellow gold (approximate), less than 150 examples have ever appeared on the market, far fewer with the iconic luminous “Star Dial” and perhaps no other will be found with an extremely early serial number. Prototypical in its design, we must delve deeper into the elements of this particular example, the first ever seen in the market of its kind.

What is most striking about the present watch is that its serial number, 579’781, as confirmed by Rolex, dates this watch to 1948, two years before its official introduction to the market. Moreover, the chronometer number is clearly marked ‘00002’, indicating it is possibly the second of its kind ever produced. The first can only be presumed not completed, or owned by the manufacturer.

The Original Owner

The original owner of this timepiece was a contractor and was based in Los Angeles in the 1940s. It is not known as to how he came to own a prototypical example of this reference, however, the amazing discovery of it by his granddaughter is enough to surmise that he understood perfectly the value that it holds.

Upon his passing, his granddaughter was in charge of selling their house and some of its contents. After the rooms had been cleared and the last box closed, she thought to draw the curtains before leaving. As she pulled the curtains together she noticed that they were unusually heavy. With great surprise she discovered that a metal object had been carefully and purposefully sewn into the material of the drapes.

It soon became clear that this was the exact watch that she had seen worn by her grandfather every day and that he must have hidden it in a rather unusual place for safekeeping, she realized that this was perhaps a practice learned during the Great Depression. Kept in the family until recently and cared for greatly throughout its life, this impressive collectable has qualities which should be cherished in the future as they have been in the past.

Reference 6062

In the second half of the 1940s, following the launch of the definitive "Oyster" case shape, Rolex introduced a variety of different watches with a diversity of movements for this celebrated case. It was predominantly used for the perpetual model with date window, later named "DateJust", until the 1950s when a second aperture was added introducing the weekday at 12 o'clock, the celebrated "Day-Date". The Oyster case was also produced with different chronograph movements, either with a constant seconds register or three subsidiary dials including the hour register. The most complicated chronograph version cased in the "Oyster" style is the famous "Dato-Compax", later nick-named "Killy" by collectors, featuring a full calendar on top of the chronograph mechanism.

The top-of-the-line version however was reference 6062, fitted with the in-house automatic movement, upgraded with a full calendar and moon phase indication. Introduced in 1950 and produced for approximately 10 years, the reference 6062 is one of only two Rolex models to feature a triple calendar, the other being the reference 8171 “Padellone”. These two models are the only watches ever made in series with moon phases, until just last year with the introduction of the Cellini reference 50535. The difference between the 6062 and the 8171 “Padellone” is that the reference 6062 was housed in the iconic Rolex “Oyster” case.

The Case

Worn everyday by its owner, the present watch does show signs of a life well lived. Nowadays, we cherish watches such as this for their rarity and character by today’s standards alongside modern ceramic, titanium, and sapphire counterparts. However, in the late 1940s, this watch was one to wear during daily wear, and in this case during the daily grind of a contractor.
Gold cases of the reference 6062 were made by Genex, in Geneva, the case department of Gay Frères. The master case maker mark for Genex is number 12 inside a key, such as the present watch. (12 for Genex, the key for Geneva). Some inside casebacks are marked with an extra ‘Montres SA Rolex’ side engraving. This was on cases made before 1953, such as the present watch, but still in inventory when the company address was changed in 1953, and renamed Montres Rolex SA in Geneva.

With a diameter of 35mm, this case is perfectly proportioned to one’s wrist with this example also sporting the original "Super-Oyster" crown, a most meaningful feature to the educated collector. Two variants of crown are seen on this reference, the "Super-Oyster", and the Twin-Lock crown. While the present “Super-Oyster” is seen on this example, it is seen on the majority of models for this reference. On closer observation, one will notice a cross between “Super” and “Oyster”. This cross was added once the crown was patented.

The Dial

This reference is seen with the "Star Dial", also known as "Stelline”, the most unusual configuration. Known as a ‘Mark 1 Dial Type 755’ by Stern Frères examples, it is the only dial made for this reference which has star-shaped hour markers with three faceted dagger-shaped hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock with radium luminous material to their center. Only one other dial variant (Dial Type 453) has star-shaped numerals, however, the luminous material is not central to the numerals but rather stands as an accent on the outer dial and it is without radium. The gold luminous stars are a rarity for this dial configuration and shine brightly against the matte silvered dial.

Another striking feature of the dial is the designation of "Officially Certified Chronometer" located in the subsidiary dial as opposed to under the Rolex signature. The moon phase disc was produced by Stern Frères with the blue enamel champlevé technique, also used in Patek Philippe calendar watches. However, one will notice that for this model they were produced with the moon phase having eyes, a nose and a mouth, adding increased charm to the dial. The calendar discs, also made by Stern Frères, are with inscriptions painted black and were produced in five languages; English, French, German, Italian or Spanish, the present example in English.

Movement

Last but not least, housed in this superlative gold Oyster case is the Caliber 655 which was especially developed for this reference. It boasted the latest in technology, the patented Rolex Super-Balance. The automatic movement has commonality with most automatic movements of its time, however, this one had an added function that would allow the calendar to advance through the setting pin holes in the band. As mentioned earlier, along with the reference 8171 these two models are the only watches ever made in series with a triple date and moon phases until 2017 with the introduction of a modern variant. This is a testament to the master craftsmanship of the manufacture and underlines the rarity and skill of these movements.

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