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Lot Essay
This highly impressive large-diameter heavy gold watch combines high complication with superb aesthetics and excellent overall condition. The equestrian-themed case is a tour-de-force of the goldsmith’s art and is richly set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies.
According to the copy of the letter of Brandeis University dated 25 January 1978 addressed to Greenberg Rarities, Inc., New York, it was formerly the property of Diamond Jim Brady. The watch and chain were donated to the University by John R. McLean of Palm Beach, Florida, in 1968, and sold to Greenberg Rarities in 1978. It is described in detail as follows:
Man's repeater pocket watch with diamond ornaments and chain. Hunting case, 18 kt. yellow gold, 16 size, enamel dial and minute repeater. Type - perpetual 4-year calendar, month, day and date, moonphase, age of the moon and stop work. Escapement - lever; drive - going barrel.
The front cover of the watch is set with 52 oriental sapphires and 4 rubies framing the figure of a horse set with diamonds in platinum.
The back cover ahs a raised platinum horseshoe, whip and bit set with 4 square sapphires and 46 diamonds. The winding stem is set with a precious aqua marine.
The attached heavy vest chain weighs 3 ounces, 14 pennyweight.
The watch, circa 1900 is in fine condition.
The 8 complications
The present timepiece impresses with the following 8 complications, in addition to the essential timekeeping functions such as hours, minutes and seconds which are not considered complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Perpetual Calendar
3. Four year cycle
4. Days of the month
5. Days of the week
6. Months
7. Moon phases and age
8. Chronograph
An excellent opportunity for collectors of haute horology, the present watch would make a stunning addition to any serious watch collection.
James Buchanan Brady (12 August 1856 – 13 April 1917), also known as Diamond Jim Brady, was an American businessman, financier and philanthropist of the « Gilded Age ».
Known for his penchant for jewels, especially diamonds, he collected precious stones and jewelry which he boldly wore in public, including a diamond-studded watch with a diamond-studded fob chain. He wore rings set with diamonds between one and seven carats. He had a diamond tie-stick, a diamond scarfpin, diamond shirt studs, diamond cufflinks, and diamond buttons down the front of his waistcoat, just to name some.
Many of his diamond-set objects were custom-made exclusively for him, including almost certainly the present timepiece: Diamond Jim Brady owned and raced a significant stable of Thoroughbred horses, notably Gold Heels, the Champion Older Male Horse of 1902, and Accountant, the American Co-Champion Three-Year-Old Male Horse of 1906.
John Randolph McClean (1916-1975)
A Palm Beach socialite, McClean is most likely to have been the ‘John R. McClean of Palm Beach, Florida’ who presented the present watch as a gift to Brandeis University in 1968. His mother, the multimillionaire Evalyn Walsh McClean (1886-1947) is best known as being the last private owner of the 45 carat ‘Hope Diamond’ and the 94 carat ‘Star of the East’.
Charles Henry Meylan
C.H. Meylan Watch & Co. was founded in Le Brassus in 1880. Charles Henry Meylan was an eminent watchmaker, well known both in the United States and in Switzerland. In 1894, he was awarded the "Premier prix de réglage de l'Observatoire de Genève". He made high quality watches with complications, flat and extra flat watches and chronometers.
According to the copy of the letter of Brandeis University dated 25 January 1978 addressed to Greenberg Rarities, Inc., New York, it was formerly the property of Diamond Jim Brady. The watch and chain were donated to the University by John R. McLean of Palm Beach, Florida, in 1968, and sold to Greenberg Rarities in 1978. It is described in detail as follows:
Man's repeater pocket watch with diamond ornaments and chain. Hunting case, 18 kt. yellow gold, 16 size, enamel dial and minute repeater. Type - perpetual 4-year calendar, month, day and date, moonphase, age of the moon and stop work. Escapement - lever; drive - going barrel.
The front cover of the watch is set with 52 oriental sapphires and 4 rubies framing the figure of a horse set with diamonds in platinum.
The back cover ahs a raised platinum horseshoe, whip and bit set with 4 square sapphires and 46 diamonds. The winding stem is set with a precious aqua marine.
The attached heavy vest chain weighs 3 ounces, 14 pennyweight.
The watch, circa 1900 is in fine condition.
The 8 complications
The present timepiece impresses with the following 8 complications, in addition to the essential timekeeping functions such as hours, minutes and seconds which are not considered complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Perpetual Calendar
3. Four year cycle
4. Days of the month
5. Days of the week
6. Months
7. Moon phases and age
8. Chronograph
An excellent opportunity for collectors of haute horology, the present watch would make a stunning addition to any serious watch collection.
James Buchanan Brady (12 August 1856 – 13 April 1917), also known as Diamond Jim Brady, was an American businessman, financier and philanthropist of the « Gilded Age ».
Known for his penchant for jewels, especially diamonds, he collected precious stones and jewelry which he boldly wore in public, including a diamond-studded watch with a diamond-studded fob chain. He wore rings set with diamonds between one and seven carats. He had a diamond tie-stick, a diamond scarfpin, diamond shirt studs, diamond cufflinks, and diamond buttons down the front of his waistcoat, just to name some.
Many of his diamond-set objects were custom-made exclusively for him, including almost certainly the present timepiece: Diamond Jim Brady owned and raced a significant stable of Thoroughbred horses, notably Gold Heels, the Champion Older Male Horse of 1902, and Accountant, the American Co-Champion Three-Year-Old Male Horse of 1906.
John Randolph McClean (1916-1975)
A Palm Beach socialite, McClean is most likely to have been the ‘John R. McClean of Palm Beach, Florida’ who presented the present watch as a gift to Brandeis University in 1968. His mother, the multimillionaire Evalyn Walsh McClean (1886-1947) is best known as being the last private owner of the 45 carat ‘Hope Diamond’ and the 94 carat ‘Star of the East’.
Charles Henry Meylan
C.H. Meylan Watch & Co. was founded in Le Brassus in 1880. Charles Henry Meylan was an eminent watchmaker, well known both in the United States and in Switzerland. In 1894, he was awarded the "Premier prix de réglage de l'Observatoire de Genève". He made high quality watches with complications, flat and extra flat watches and chronometers.