Naturalism was a prevailing theme in the Victorian era that emphasized realistic representations of flora in jewelry, art and culture. This desire for botanical jewels arose with the widespread interest in botany and horticulture. Botanical magazines, plant dictionaries and encyclopedias were numerous and lavishly illustrated. A particular fascination with orchids emerged in last quarter of the 19th century and they were regarded as a symbol of wealth and prestige. Some of the finest examples of naturalism in jewelry at the time can be seen in works by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Co..

George Paulding Farnham (1859–1927) had an innate passion for creativity and an extraordinary artistic ability. Farnham’s uncle, Charles T. Cook, the vice president and later president of Tiffany & Co., was especially impressed by his young nephew’s talents and in 1885, Farnham secured an apprenticeship at the firm.

At the time, Tiffany & Co. was preparing for the upcoming 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. With two years to prepare for the exhibition, Farnham drafted countless designs, eventually completing an assemblage of two dozen enamel and multi-gem orchids and flowers. Tiffany’s booth at the Exposition was praised by the public and press alike and Farnham’s name became synonymous with originality and excellence. As a result, Tiffany & Co. earned a gold medal for their jewelry on display and Farnham was individually awarded a silver medal. Many of the orchids were purchased by notable American clients of Tiffany & Co. including J.P. Morgan, Jay Gould and Henry Walters. Increasing demand for the orchids following the exhibition prompted Tiffany & Co. and their competitors to continue production of flora inspired jewels.

This present lot is a beautiful example of Victorian naturalism. The faceted crystal scent bottle is delicately wrapped with a colorfully painted enamel orchid set with rose-cut diamond petals and a vibrant yellow leaf. The precisely painted enamel cap and natural color variations of the flower highlight its realistic composition and masterful attention to detail. Though unsigned, the workmanship of this lot is reminiscent of Farnham’s work and exemplifies the naturalistic theme within the Victorian era, and skill set forth by some of the master craftsmen and designers of the period.