The pinnacle of jewelry design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mystérieux,’ represents the culmination of Van Cleef & Arpels’ revolutionary eye for design and spirit of innovation. This exceptional technique, perfected by only a few master jewelers, referred to as grandes mains or ‘great hands’ by their contemporaries at the Van Cleef & Arpels workshops, not only transcends technical perfection but also reflects the art of the jeweler. Though often imitated, ‘Mystery-set’ jewels have remained unrivalled and unmatched thanks to the incredible skill and dedication of the firm that perfected this method of setting. The term ‘Serti Mystérieux’ brought the firm much prestige and is thus a description exclusively reserved for creations by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The technique was first conceived at 22 Place Vendôme in the 1930s by Mr. Alfred Van Cleef, an innovative genius and lover of beauty, and Mr. Julien Arpels, a connoisseur of the finest precious stones. The ‘Mystery-set’ was a sophisticated and complex idea that added a new dimension to the world of jewelry. The ‘Mystery-set’ is simply defined as the setting of precious gemstones in a close pattern without a trace of metal or prongs. The technique was first applied to objects with flat surfaces, and overtime was extended to more complex curved or bombé forms.

Rather than the constraints of prongs or metal claws, the ‘Mystery-set’ is composed of a lattice of delicate gold or platinum threads that form a net, only visible from the reverse of the jewel. The jeweler then carefully selects only the best quality gemstones in order to calibrate and cute each stone to fit precisely within the overall design of the piece. Each stone is given four extra facets to create subtle effects of light and shadow and then incised with a special groove cut just beneath the girdle of each stone, allowing the stone to slide onto the metal threads of the lattice. The final result is an elegant mosaic of color and light.

Taking an average of 1,200 hours to complete just one ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, this painstaking process is a testament to the exceptional craftsmanship, dedication and ambition of the firm’s artistic and technical vision that makes these jewels a true inspiration for all jewelry designers and collectors alike.