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Lot Essay
Naturalism had a significant influence in the Victorian era, not only in literature and works of art, but jewelry frequently depicted realistic representations of flora. By the end of the 19th century, “Orchidelirium” or “orchid fever” had spread from Europe and had made its way to America. Collecting orchids was an expensive pastime, and for the wealthy, they represented not only rarity and beauty, but also a symbol of status. American designer, Paulding Farnham, was able to capture the elegance and delicate nature of orchids, transforming them into enchanting creations that Tiffany & Co. unveiled at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle.
Farnham had mastered naturalism in his design and in preparation for the 1889 Exposition, Tiffany & Co. collected orchid specimens from various countries such as India, Mexico and the Philippines that would serve as models for their jewelled creations. Not only did the Paris Exposition mark the hundredth anniversary of the French Revolution and the introduction of the Eiffel Tower, it also prompted creators to showcase their most innovative and artistic designs.
Tiffany & Co. fascinated the public when they exhibited Farnham’s intricately modeled orchid brooches, suspended on fine wires above their showcase. The Syracuse Herald article stated “Only actual touch could convince the observer that they were the work of man’s hands.” In response to the public’s enthusiasm over Farnham’s orchids, Tiffany & Co. chose to add another fifteen varieties to the already existing twenty-four enamel and gemstone accented flowers.
Farnham’s orchids earned Tiffany & Co. the gold medal for jewelry at the Exposition. This accolade was not only praised by the American public, but for the first time the French now recognized the United States and Tiffany & Co. as an international contender.
The present orchid brooch was a part of the additional brooches produced in 1890. Found in Central America, the blossom is an Odontoglossum maculatum and incorporates the "matte-finished" enamel utilized by Farnham, instilling a life-like quality in the flower. A small old-mine-cut diamond punctuates the center and the brown mottling effect on the petals further highlights its realistic composition.
Farnham had mastered naturalism in his design and in preparation for the 1889 Exposition, Tiffany & Co. collected orchid specimens from various countries such as India, Mexico and the Philippines that would serve as models for their jewelled creations. Not only did the Paris Exposition mark the hundredth anniversary of the French Revolution and the introduction of the Eiffel Tower, it also prompted creators to showcase their most innovative and artistic designs.
Tiffany & Co. fascinated the public when they exhibited Farnham’s intricately modeled orchid brooches, suspended on fine wires above their showcase. The Syracuse Herald article stated “Only actual touch could convince the observer that they were the work of man’s hands.” In response to the public’s enthusiasm over Farnham’s orchids, Tiffany & Co. chose to add another fifteen varieties to the already existing twenty-four enamel and gemstone accented flowers.
Farnham’s orchids earned Tiffany & Co. the gold medal for jewelry at the Exposition. This accolade was not only praised by the American public, but for the first time the French now recognized the United States and Tiffany & Co. as an international contender.
The present orchid brooch was a part of the additional brooches produced in 1890. Found in Central America, the blossom is an Odontoglossum maculatum and incorporates the "matte-finished" enamel utilized by Farnham, instilling a life-like quality in the flower. A small old-mine-cut diamond punctuates the center and the brown mottling effect on the petals further highlights its realistic composition.