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Lot Essay
This formidable perpetual calendar chronograph is the only known example of a reference 1518 to be signed, numbered and certified by arguably the world's most aristocratic jewellers – Cartier.
Unique versions of arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, are one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide.
Consigned by an important European private collector and, to the best of our knowledge, never offered in public before, the present reference 1518 double-signed by Cartier is the only known example of this highly exclusive combination with the Cartier signature at 6 o'clock and certified by Cartier. As such, it is of immense historic significance and naturally, one of the ultimate and most exclusive trophy watches of the reference. Distinctly marked with Cartier's hand-stamped five digit reference no. 17544 underneath the upper left lug, the most exciting and most eye-catching feature is the signature ‘Cartier’ on the dial below the moon phase. Manufactured in 1946, this late first series 1518 has, although by no means unworn, weathered the last 76 years well. The hallmark on the back of the upper right lug and Cartier punch number being still clearly legible. On close inspection of the movement, the import stamp ‘PXP’ can be seen engraved on the balance bridge, showing that this watch was made specifically for the American market. This matches perfectly with the Cartier certificate confirming that this watch was retailed through Cartier’s New York branch. Indeed, the only other publicly known example of reference 1518 retailed by Cartier (numbered by Cartier only, not signed) was manufactured in 1944 and sold through Cartier in New York. That watch, movement no. 863’464, case no. 636’421, Cartier no. 15536, was sold by Christie’s New York, 16 June 2010, lot 383.
The Dial
First series, Mark 3, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled long Patek Philippe & Co. signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Serial no. 638’780, made circa 1946 by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Serial no. 863’669, cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design. One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
The earliest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch serially produced, in fact the first perpetual chronograph wristwatch serially produced by any manufacturer, ever, reference 1518 is also the rarest. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker number 9, inscribed in a key as for all the Geneva based case makers).
Patek Philippe
Since its foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe always stood for quality, craftsmanship, precision and style. It is to no surprise that this great firm's history is intimately interwoven with the lives of Kings and Queens, statesmen, celebrated businessmen, successful scientists and famous artists. Patek Philippe's clientele has included Queen Victoria and King Umberto II, James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr., Marie Curie and Albert Einstein, Richard Wagner and Duke Ellington.
Cartier
The luxury jeweller Cartier, founded by Louis-François Cartier in Paris in 1847, has always been synonymous with elegance and beauty. The creation of celebrated design innovations such as the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches, exotic orientalist Art Deco designs including the daringly colourful "Tutti Frutti" bracelet all contributed to its reputation of "the Jeweller of Kings and the King of Jewellers".
Unique versions of arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, are one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide.
Consigned by an important European private collector and, to the best of our knowledge, never offered in public before, the present reference 1518 double-signed by Cartier is the only known example of this highly exclusive combination with the Cartier signature at 6 o'clock and certified by Cartier. As such, it is of immense historic significance and naturally, one of the ultimate and most exclusive trophy watches of the reference. Distinctly marked with Cartier's hand-stamped five digit reference no. 17544 underneath the upper left lug, the most exciting and most eye-catching feature is the signature ‘Cartier’ on the dial below the moon phase. Manufactured in 1946, this late first series 1518 has, although by no means unworn, weathered the last 76 years well. The hallmark on the back of the upper right lug and Cartier punch number being still clearly legible. On close inspection of the movement, the import stamp ‘PXP’ can be seen engraved on the balance bridge, showing that this watch was made specifically for the American market. This matches perfectly with the Cartier certificate confirming that this watch was retailed through Cartier’s New York branch. Indeed, the only other publicly known example of reference 1518 retailed by Cartier (numbered by Cartier only, not signed) was manufactured in 1944 and sold through Cartier in New York. That watch, movement no. 863’464, case no. 636’421, Cartier no. 15536, was sold by Christie’s New York, 16 June 2010, lot 383.
The Dial
First series, Mark 3, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled long Patek Philippe & Co. signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Serial no. 638’780, made circa 1946 by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Serial no. 863’669, cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design. One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
The earliest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch serially produced, in fact the first perpetual chronograph wristwatch serially produced by any manufacturer, ever, reference 1518 is also the rarest. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker number 9, inscribed in a key as for all the Geneva based case makers).
Patek Philippe
Since its foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe always stood for quality, craftsmanship, precision and style. It is to no surprise that this great firm's history is intimately interwoven with the lives of Kings and Queens, statesmen, celebrated businessmen, successful scientists and famous artists. Patek Philippe's clientele has included Queen Victoria and King Umberto II, James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr., Marie Curie and Albert Einstein, Richard Wagner and Duke Ellington.
Cartier
The luxury jeweller Cartier, founded by Louis-François Cartier in Paris in 1847, has always been synonymous with elegance and beauty. The creation of celebrated design innovations such as the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches, exotic orientalist Art Deco designs including the daringly colourful "Tutti Frutti" bracelet all contributed to its reputation of "the Jeweller of Kings and the King of Jewellers".