VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY
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Property of an Important Collector
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY

Details
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SUITE OF RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'HAWAII' JEWELRY
Round rubies and sapphires, round and single-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold (French marks), bracelet circa 1938, earrings circa 1953 and ring circa 1938, each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, bracelet with maker's mark, each numbered

Size/Dimensions: bracelet 15.5 cm (6 1/8 in); earrings 2.2 cm ( 7/8 in); US ring size 5
Gross Weight: 127.2 grams
Provenance
Doris Duke
Christie's, New York, 2 June 2004, Magnificent Jewels from the Doris Duke Collection, lot 77
Literature
S. Coffin, S. Menkes, R. Peltason, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef Arpels, New York, Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum Smithsonian Institution, 2011, p. 257
E. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012, p. 126 (earrings and ring)
E. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: When Elegance Meets Art, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2018, p. 126 (earrings and ring)
Exhibited
New York, Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, 18 February - 5 June 2011
Paris, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, Paris, 20 September 2012 - 10 February 2013
Beijing, Today Art Museum, Van Cleef & Arpels: When Elegance Meets Art, 21 April - 5 August 2018 (earrings and ring)

Lot Essay

The 1930s and 1940s are often described as a golden age for Van Cleef & Arpels. The firm debuted iconic designs, which bolstered the reputation of the Maison worldwide. One collection from this period was referred to as ‘Hawaii’ jewels. This collection was presented at the 1939 New York World’s Fair and there it gained international recognition.

The magnificent collection the Maison presented at the Fair was designed for posterity. ‘Hawaii’ jewels were composed of red, blue and white forget-me-not flower bouquets set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. The tri-colored scheme symbolized the allied flags at the time of the Liberation. The collection became very popular after World War II – worn as a renowned token of ‘freedom-at-last’ by the Élegantes set worldwide.

This collection of ‘Hawaii’ jewels were previously from the Collection of Doris Duke offered at Christie’s New York in November 2004. The proceeds of the 2004 sale benefitted The Doris Duke Charitable Foundation. The magnificence, beauty and quality of objects she collected were remarkable and tell a story of privilege, taste, and a lifestyle that evolved over the course of many decades.

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