Lot Essay
For over a century, the panther has been a timeless and iconic symbol for the house of Cartier. It wasn’t until 1914 when the panther design first appeared on a woman’s wristwatch adorned with diamonds and onyx mimicking the big cat’s fur. The exotic creature took Paris by storm – a sign of elegance and fierce femininity.
In 1933, style icon Jeanne Toussaint was appointed Artistic Director of High Jewelry and would soon make the panther an integral part of the Maison’s identity. Louis Cartier fondly nicknamed Toussaint ’La Panthère’, perhaps for her long panther fur coat, fierce determination and intelligence. In a time where it was rare to find women in such prominent roles in the industry, Toussaint quickly proved why she earned and was made for this position.
With a vision of creating the brand’s first three dimensional panther piece, Toussaint and her design team would visit the zoo to study the anatomy of the animal to perfect the silhouette in design. In 1948, at the request of the Duke of Windsor, the first three-dimensional Cartier ‘Panthère’ was created for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor. Other icons drawn to the feline-themed jewels included María Félix, Daisy Fellowes and Barbara Hutton.
The signature panther has endured and evolved its design for more than a century and continues to capture the attention of collectors and enthusiasts. The present bracelet showcases a contemporary design featuring icy moonstones with the classic, yet abstract, panther guarding the beautifully-hued and impressively sized cabochon aquamarine.
In 1933, style icon Jeanne Toussaint was appointed Artistic Director of High Jewelry and would soon make the panther an integral part of the Maison’s identity. Louis Cartier fondly nicknamed Toussaint ’La Panthère’, perhaps for her long panther fur coat, fierce determination and intelligence. In a time where it was rare to find women in such prominent roles in the industry, Toussaint quickly proved why she earned and was made for this position.
With a vision of creating the brand’s first three dimensional panther piece, Toussaint and her design team would visit the zoo to study the anatomy of the animal to perfect the silhouette in design. In 1948, at the request of the Duke of Windsor, the first three-dimensional Cartier ‘Panthère’ was created for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor. Other icons drawn to the feline-themed jewels included María Félix, Daisy Fellowes and Barbara Hutton.
The signature panther has endured and evolved its design for more than a century and continues to capture the attention of collectors and enthusiasts. The present bracelet showcases a contemporary design featuring icy moonstones with the classic, yet abstract, panther guarding the beautifully-hued and impressively sized cabochon aquamarine.