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Lot Essay
This awesome Patek Philippe yellow gold and diamond-set reference 3700/4 is one of the rarest vintage Nautilus models of all. Manufactured in 1980, it is surprisingly early for a diamond-set ‘luxury’ precious metal Nautilus. Fewer than 5 examples have appeared publicly, in fact it is so little known that even veteran collectors may never have heard of or seen it before. In addition to the present lot’s incredible rarity, it has remained amazingly untouched with a crisp case and bracelet and superb ‘aprior’ dial with luminous gold baton indexes that have aged to a beautiful and even patina. The bezel is Extract confirmed factory-set with 72 white diamonds with a total weight of 0.53 carats. Unusually, the stones are not set directly on top of the bezel but placed on the outer inclined bevel. This charming and highly distinctive detail adds to the complexity and elegance of this very seldom-seen timepiece. Between the beauty and rarity of the gold case and lustrous diamond bezel, this watch is not only an almost mythical Nautilus model it is also a true delight to behold for any serious Nautilus collector.
The Nautilus is possibly the most recognizable wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Designed by Gérald Genta and inspired by the shape of a ship's portholes, it was available as of 1976. With its generous proportions, unusual case design striking the perfect balance between sporting, elegant and understated, and the very robust construction, the first foray of Patek Philippe into the world of sports watches quickly became a worldwide commercial success, and marked the beginning of the Nautilus legend. The first incarnation of this landmark model is the legendary reference 3700. Scholars agree that normal production included versions in steel, steel and gold, yellow gold and a very limited production with diamonds. The Nautilus offered here was given the reference number 3700/4 as part of the family of jewelled timepieces, the most exclusive and rarefied of Patek Philippe's productions.
The water-resistant Nautilus ref. 3700
The case patent design of the first Nautilus, reference 3700, was registered on 23 April 1976. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an ‘ear’ which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. From 1976 until 1980, the cases were made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle.
Calibre 28-255
Another of the many attractions of the Nautilus Ref. 3700 for the watch aficionado is that from the very beginning it was fitted with what is generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibres – the 28-255. Based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920 of 1967 it is regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. It is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the calibre 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered calibre 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their calibre 1120.
The calibre is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21k gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
The Nautilus is possibly the most recognizable wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Designed by Gérald Genta and inspired by the shape of a ship's portholes, it was available as of 1976. With its generous proportions, unusual case design striking the perfect balance between sporting, elegant and understated, and the very robust construction, the first foray of Patek Philippe into the world of sports watches quickly became a worldwide commercial success, and marked the beginning of the Nautilus legend. The first incarnation of this landmark model is the legendary reference 3700. Scholars agree that normal production included versions in steel, steel and gold, yellow gold and a very limited production with diamonds. The Nautilus offered here was given the reference number 3700/4 as part of the family of jewelled timepieces, the most exclusive and rarefied of Patek Philippe's productions.
The water-resistant Nautilus ref. 3700
The case patent design of the first Nautilus, reference 3700, was registered on 23 April 1976. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an ‘ear’ which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. From 1976 until 1980, the cases were made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle.
Calibre 28-255
Another of the many attractions of the Nautilus Ref. 3700 for the watch aficionado is that from the very beginning it was fitted with what is generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibres – the 28-255. Based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920 of 1967 it is regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. It is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the calibre 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered calibre 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their calibre 1120.
The calibre is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21k gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.