For over a century, the panther has endured as a timeless and iconic motif for the house of Cartier. It wasn’t until 1914 when the panther design first appeared on a woman’s wristwatch adorned with diamonds and onyx mimicking the big cat’s fur. The exotic creature took Paris by storm – a sign of elegance and fierce femininity.

In 1933, style icon Jeanne Toussaint was appointed as Artistic Director of High Jewelry and would soon make the panther an integral part of the Maison’s identity. Louis Cartier fondly nicknamed Toussaint ’La Panthère’ for her long panther fur coat, fierce determination and intellect. In a time where it was rare to find women in such prominent roles in the industry, Toussaint quickly proved why she deserved this position.

Jeanne Toussaint was born in Belgium and moved to Paris at the height of the Belle Epoque. Her style and charisma made her a fixture in society circles as Louis Cartier quickly recognized her creative talent. He invited Toussaint to join the Maison around 1918, first starting in leather goods, then promoting her to head of the silver department before handing her the creative reins of the house in 1933.

With a vision to bring the poised panther design to life, Touissant and her creative team would visit the Vincennes zoo to study the anatomy of the animal to perfect the silhouette as a jewel. In 1948, at the request of the Duke of Windsor, the first three-dimensional Cartier ‘Panthère’ was created for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, with a second extraordinary panther piece purchased the year after. Other icons drawn to the feline-themed jewels included María Félix, Daisy Fellowes, Nina Dyer and Barbara Hutton.

Years later, derived by the accolade the panther received from the clients, the Maison introduced another ferocious companion, the tiger. Adorned with fancy yellow diamonds, cabochon onyx plaques, bright emerald eyes and the occasional posable head, this new motif quickly rose to popularity. Through abstract or figurative design, Cartier continues to capture the attention of enthusiasts and collectors with these remarkable big cats.