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Lot Essay
Christie’s is delighted to offer this superb early tonneau-shaped ‘tortue à pattes’ or ‘turtle on legs’ single button chronograph wristwatch. The tortue à pattes’ case was designed by Cartier around 1910, the shape was intended to resemble a turtle, a very popular animal during this era and symbol of good fortune and longevity in many civilisations. In 1928, Cartier launched the single button chronograph wristwatch with a ‘tortue’ case. It is now one of the rarest models among Cartier’s ‘golden age’ wristwatches of the 1920s. Very few examples, perhaps no more than ten, are known publicly and the present watch is without doubt one of the finest and most original known examples. Moreover, it is accompanied by a Cartier Certificate confirming the date of manufacture in 1929 and its authenticity. Interestingly, the present watch was evidently supplied to the highly prestigious London firm of The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. Ltd., whose maker’s mark is punched on the case. The company was one of the leading English manufacturers and retailers of fine watches, silver and jewellery situated at 112 Regent Street, London. In 1952 the company merged with the then Crown jeweller, Garrard & Co.
The appeal of this ultra-rare single button chronograph is greatly enhanced by its quite evident original condition. The dial has aged naturally and displays the wonderfully undisturbed patina that collectors particularly appreciate with vintage Cartier. The case is similarly well preserved and lightly patinated, with fully legible hallmarks and hallmarked gold screw bar lugs. Collectors will appreciate the fine movement by the European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., the company formed in the early 1920s with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to make movements specifically for Cartier. It is now the signature most associated and desired when considering the vintage watches and clocks of Cartier. The single button chronograph mechanism in use during this period allows its wearer to operate all three stop-watch functions: start, stop and return-to-zero, coaxially via the winding crown only, instead of the two button system found in most later chronograph watches – this gives these early watches a most elegant, smooth and uninterrupted line.
The appreciation and understanding of Cartier’s early wristwatches increases year on year and any significant rarity that appears at auction creates international interest and is fiercely pursued by collectors. Always one of the ultimate symbols of taste and luxury, only very small numbers of wristwatches were made during Cartier’s golden age in the first half of the 20th century, even fewer have survived to the present day. The present watch is a particularly significant example of the ‘tortue à pattes’ single button chronograph, perfectly epitomizing the glamour and elegance of the Art Deco era.
The appeal of this ultra-rare single button chronograph is greatly enhanced by its quite evident original condition. The dial has aged naturally and displays the wonderfully undisturbed patina that collectors particularly appreciate with vintage Cartier. The case is similarly well preserved and lightly patinated, with fully legible hallmarks and hallmarked gold screw bar lugs. Collectors will appreciate the fine movement by the European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., the company formed in the early 1920s with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to make movements specifically for Cartier. It is now the signature most associated and desired when considering the vintage watches and clocks of Cartier. The single button chronograph mechanism in use during this period allows its wearer to operate all three stop-watch functions: start, stop and return-to-zero, coaxially via the winding crown only, instead of the two button system found in most later chronograph watches – this gives these early watches a most elegant, smooth and uninterrupted line.
The appreciation and understanding of Cartier’s early wristwatches increases year on year and any significant rarity that appears at auction creates international interest and is fiercely pursued by collectors. Always one of the ultimate symbols of taste and luxury, only very small numbers of wristwatches were made during Cartier’s golden age in the first half of the 20th century, even fewer have survived to the present day. The present watch is a particularly significant example of the ‘tortue à pattes’ single button chronograph, perfectly epitomizing the glamour and elegance of the Art Deco era.