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Lot Essay
Entirely fresh to the market, this fascinating, highly attractive and large one-of-a-kind white gold chronograph is a remarkable and important discovery. Worn by J.P. Ecoffey as his personal watch, it is thought to have been custom-cased by him around 1963 as a prototype design for a model that was ultimately unrealized.
The fully signed Patek Philippe dial and movement are for reference 1463. However, there are differences in the dial and hand type that are specific to this watch, such as the surprising (for a white gold watch) yellow gold hour markers and hands, quite probably chosen purposely by Mr. Ecoffey. A reference 1463 with a dial of this design with Arabic half-hour numerals would usually be fitted with ‘feuille’ hands and not the ‘baton’ hands of the present watch, which are usually paired with the Roman numeral dial type.
Of course the most important and unique aspect of this strikingly unusual chronograph is the amazing custom-made case. Handmade by the legendary Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, the interior of the back is punched with his mastermark of number 5 within a key along with the Swiss gold marks. Its design and construction is immediately eye-catching as something out of the ordinary, it is made in two parts with a wide and curved brushed band, polished bezel and short angular lugs. Indeed, the overall rather futuristic look is reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s reference 3448 which was introduced in 1962 - at almost the same time the present watch was made.
Patek Philippe No. 869’136, Case by Ecoffey - A Close Study
Dial
Reference 1463 yellow gold configuration, made by Stern Frères with 1000 base tachymeter scale. Silver base plate, silvered with engraved-enamelled inscriptions for the signature, subsidiary dials and outer scales which are generally very well preserved. Subject to only very high standard non-invasive professional restoration on perhaps two occasions, the back has restorer’s initials ‘JJ’ and ‘90’ and ‘95’ who was the restorer at Stern Frères. The back of the dial is correctly marked with ‘93’ for Patek Philippe and ‘337 2’, the ‘337’ for the dial order and ‘2’ for the second batch of this exact dial type. A Patek Philippe ‘rhabillage’ inscription ‘7891’ is also found on the back of the dial.
Case
White gold one-of-a-kind two-piece with bombè band, made by J.P. Ecoffey himself to his own design, circa 1963. Unusually, the back is secured by 8 white gold screws which is reminiscent of Cartier, the hallmark is clearly visible on the case back. The crown is Calatrava pattern and made in solid white gold.
Movement
Calibre 13-130, made in 1963, with Valjoux base especially finished Patek Philippe. It bears two Geneva seals. Fitted with an amagnetic balance with swan-neck micrometer adjustment. The balance and main chronograph bridge are marked with the correct Patek Philippe partial serial number.
J.P. Ecoffey
An important part of Geneva watchmaking history, the firm of J.P. Ecoffey began in the 1950’s when Mr. Ecoffey acquired the factory of the renowned casemakers Georges Croisier, whose mastermark was a number 5 within a key. When J.P. Ecoffey took over the company he retained the same maker’s mark as Croisier and continued in the making of the highest quality wristwatch bracelets in either gold or platinum for major brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and IWC. The firm’s reputation was second to none and ‘JPE’ bracelets are of unequalled quality even by today’s standards. At the time, only the firm of Gay Frères could compete, but with much bigger production numbers they rarely matched the quality of JPE. Interestingly, casemaker and living legend Jean-Pierre Hagmann was employed by J.P. Ecoffey for 13 years between 1970 and 1983 as head of the case division.
The fully signed Patek Philippe dial and movement are for reference 1463. However, there are differences in the dial and hand type that are specific to this watch, such as the surprising (for a white gold watch) yellow gold hour markers and hands, quite probably chosen purposely by Mr. Ecoffey. A reference 1463 with a dial of this design with Arabic half-hour numerals would usually be fitted with ‘feuille’ hands and not the ‘baton’ hands of the present watch, which are usually paired with the Roman numeral dial type.
Of course the most important and unique aspect of this strikingly unusual chronograph is the amazing custom-made case. Handmade by the legendary Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, the interior of the back is punched with his mastermark of number 5 within a key along with the Swiss gold marks. Its design and construction is immediately eye-catching as something out of the ordinary, it is made in two parts with a wide and curved brushed band, polished bezel and short angular lugs. Indeed, the overall rather futuristic look is reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s reference 3448 which was introduced in 1962 - at almost the same time the present watch was made.
Patek Philippe No. 869’136, Case by Ecoffey - A Close Study
Dial
Reference 1463 yellow gold configuration, made by Stern Frères with 1000 base tachymeter scale. Silver base plate, silvered with engraved-enamelled inscriptions for the signature, subsidiary dials and outer scales which are generally very well preserved. Subject to only very high standard non-invasive professional restoration on perhaps two occasions, the back has restorer’s initials ‘JJ’ and ‘90’ and ‘95’ who was the restorer at Stern Frères. The back of the dial is correctly marked with ‘93’ for Patek Philippe and ‘337 2’, the ‘337’ for the dial order and ‘2’ for the second batch of this exact dial type. A Patek Philippe ‘rhabillage’ inscription ‘7891’ is also found on the back of the dial.
Case
White gold one-of-a-kind two-piece with bombè band, made by J.P. Ecoffey himself to his own design, circa 1963. Unusually, the back is secured by 8 white gold screws which is reminiscent of Cartier, the hallmark is clearly visible on the case back. The crown is Calatrava pattern and made in solid white gold.
Movement
Calibre 13-130, made in 1963, with Valjoux base especially finished Patek Philippe. It bears two Geneva seals. Fitted with an amagnetic balance with swan-neck micrometer adjustment. The balance and main chronograph bridge are marked with the correct Patek Philippe partial serial number.
J.P. Ecoffey
An important part of Geneva watchmaking history, the firm of J.P. Ecoffey began in the 1950’s when Mr. Ecoffey acquired the factory of the renowned casemakers Georges Croisier, whose mastermark was a number 5 within a key. When J.P. Ecoffey took over the company he retained the same maker’s mark as Croisier and continued in the making of the highest quality wristwatch bracelets in either gold or platinum for major brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and IWC. The firm’s reputation was second to none and ‘JPE’ bracelets are of unequalled quality even by today’s standards. At the time, only the firm of Gay Frères could compete, but with much bigger production numbers they rarely matched the quality of JPE. Interestingly, casemaker and living legend Jean-Pierre Hagmann was employed by J.P. Ecoffey for 13 years between 1970 and 1983 as head of the case division.