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Lot Essay
THE EUGEN SCOTONI GASSMANN REFERENCE 1518
The original owner of this superb first series reference 1518 was the Austrian-born Swiss business tycoon Eugen Scotoni Gassmann (1873-1961). As a very successful high-profile businessman, Mr. Gassmann fits exactly the profile of the kind of sophisticated rich client that could not only afford, but had the taste and style to choose one of Patek Philippe’s most exclusive state-of-the-art complicated wristwatch models of the period, especially at the height of World War II.
Arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph reference 1518 is one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide. The present yellow gold specimen is a wonderful and extremely rare example of a first series reference 1518. It is distinguished by its early and very seldom seen first series ‘Mark 3’ dial: this much sought after version features the pre-1948 ‘long signature’ ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’ and distinctive larger fonts for the day and month indications. The tachymeter scale is furthermore not framed by two thin lines as found in the later series and the words ‘Base 1000’ are situated to the left of the 12 numeral. The case showing only the signs of careful and light use over the past 80 years has developed a sublime patination to the gold that is so appreciated by connoisseurs and serves to enhance the vintage magic of this great ‘golden age’ Patek Philippe rarity. The case back has a fascinating original engraved dedication for Eugen Scotoni-Gassmann dated 1943 which is an important historical record of the illustrious original owner.
Early examples of reference 1518 such as the present watch also have a different case construction: the chronograph pushers are positioned centrally in the band and the corrector is close to the upper edge of the band. In later examples the pushers and corrector are located much further down in the case band.
The present first series reference 1518 offers collectors, rarity, condition and great provenance. It would without doubt be an important and significant addition to any collection.
The Dial
First series, Mark 3, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled long Patek Philippe & Co. signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Made circa 1942/3 by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Eugen Scotoni Gassmann (1873–1961)
An influential Austrian-born Swiss businessman from the construction, real estate and film industries. He built the first Swiss skyscraper in Lausanne in the 1930s. In the early 1930s, he acquired control of the large German film company Terra Film. He allowed his sons to run it, particularly Ralph Scotoni. After the company, along with the rest of the industry, was nationalised in the mid-1930s the Scotoni’s left Germany and the film production business but carried on running a chain of cinemas in Switzerland. He founded the Scotoni-Gassmann foundation, providing affordable housing to families with many children and economically weak elderly. He was married to Angelina Gassmann (1877–1953), and was known as Eugen Scotoni-Gassmann. Other children included Adrian, Angela, Edwin, Hildegard and Anton-Eric Scotoni, who became well-known for bringing film stars such as Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Roger Moore to Zurich.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.
The original owner of this superb first series reference 1518 was the Austrian-born Swiss business tycoon Eugen Scotoni Gassmann (1873-1961). As a very successful high-profile businessman, Mr. Gassmann fits exactly the profile of the kind of sophisticated rich client that could not only afford, but had the taste and style to choose one of Patek Philippe’s most exclusive state-of-the-art complicated wristwatch models of the period, especially at the height of World War II.
Arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph reference 1518 is one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide. The present yellow gold specimen is a wonderful and extremely rare example of a first series reference 1518. It is distinguished by its early and very seldom seen first series ‘Mark 3’ dial: this much sought after version features the pre-1948 ‘long signature’ ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’ and distinctive larger fonts for the day and month indications. The tachymeter scale is furthermore not framed by two thin lines as found in the later series and the words ‘Base 1000’ are situated to the left of the 12 numeral. The case showing only the signs of careful and light use over the past 80 years has developed a sublime patination to the gold that is so appreciated by connoisseurs and serves to enhance the vintage magic of this great ‘golden age’ Patek Philippe rarity. The case back has a fascinating original engraved dedication for Eugen Scotoni-Gassmann dated 1943 which is an important historical record of the illustrious original owner.
Early examples of reference 1518 such as the present watch also have a different case construction: the chronograph pushers are positioned centrally in the band and the corrector is close to the upper edge of the band. In later examples the pushers and corrector are located much further down in the case band.
The present first series reference 1518 offers collectors, rarity, condition and great provenance. It would without doubt be an important and significant addition to any collection.
The Dial
First series, Mark 3, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled long Patek Philippe & Co. signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Made circa 1942/3 by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Eugen Scotoni Gassmann (1873–1961)
An influential Austrian-born Swiss businessman from the construction, real estate and film industries. He built the first Swiss skyscraper in Lausanne in the 1930s. In the early 1930s, he acquired control of the large German film company Terra Film. He allowed his sons to run it, particularly Ralph Scotoni. After the company, along with the rest of the industry, was nationalised in the mid-1930s the Scotoni’s left Germany and the film production business but carried on running a chain of cinemas in Switzerland. He founded the Scotoni-Gassmann foundation, providing affordable housing to families with many children and economically weak elderly. He was married to Angelina Gassmann (1877–1953), and was known as Eugen Scotoni-Gassmann. Other children included Adrian, Angela, Edwin, Hildegard and Anton-Eric Scotoni, who became well-known for bringing film stars such as Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Roger Moore to Zurich.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.