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Lot Essay
It is a rare occasion indeed when a vintage Patek Philippe wristwatch of such global importance is seen on the open market today. It can be said without exaggeration that the present pink gold reference 1518 would be a sensational centrepiece in any of the world's most important collections. It is always exciting when any reference 1518, one of the rarest and most significant of all Patek Philippe watches, is offered at auction and even more so when that watch is one of only 58 pieces that were made in pink gold and one of only 45 known publicly today. Of those 45 known surviving pink gold examples, the present watch is one of the finest preserved of all. Moreover, this spectacular perpetual calendar chronograph is one of only two publicly known pink gold reference 1518s with the days of the week and months calendar indications in Portuguese.
Patek Philippe itself regards the reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning pink gold second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics.
Outstandingly preserved, the case has not been overpolished and has developed the light patina of age to the gold that only comes from many years of careful storage. The exceptional condition is underlined by the case’s full proportions and still legible hallmarks to the outside of the upper right lug and the lower left side of the band. The most striking feature of this watch is however its astoundingly attractive dial. Virtually untouched, with only the smallest of blemishes, it is no surprise that the hard enamel signature and scales are as raised as to be expected, even the day and month windows impress by the pristineness of the black enamel text on white background.
By far one of the best and certainly most charismatic reference 1518 to be offered in public in recent years, the present specimen is certain to attract the undivided attention of collectors worldwide.
The Dial
Second series, Mark 2, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled short Patek Philippe, Genève signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, the subsidiary seconds hand, chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Made by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back. The crown is oversized on watches after 1949.
The Movement
Cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.
Patek Philippe itself regards the reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning pink gold second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics.
Outstandingly preserved, the case has not been overpolished and has developed the light patina of age to the gold that only comes from many years of careful storage. The exceptional condition is underlined by the case’s full proportions and still legible hallmarks to the outside of the upper right lug and the lower left side of the band. The most striking feature of this watch is however its astoundingly attractive dial. Virtually untouched, with only the smallest of blemishes, it is no surprise that the hard enamel signature and scales are as raised as to be expected, even the day and month windows impress by the pristineness of the black enamel text on white background.
By far one of the best and certainly most charismatic reference 1518 to be offered in public in recent years, the present specimen is certain to attract the undivided attention of collectors worldwide.
The Dial
Second series, Mark 2, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled short Patek Philippe, Genève signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, the subsidiary seconds hand, chronograph and the register hand are made from flamed blued steel.
The Case
Made by Emile Vichet, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 9 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back. The crown is oversized on watches after 1949.
The Movement
Cal. 13’’’130 Q, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.