OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE
OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE
OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE
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OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE
7 More
OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE

REF. OT 2520, MANUFACTURED IN 1954

Details
OMEGA. AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS AND CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL DEPICTING NEPTUNE
REF. OT 2520, MANUFACTURED IN 1954
Movement: Automatic
Dial: Polychrome Cloisonné enamel scene depicting Neptune holding a trident and two sea-horses
Case: 34 mm.
With: OAK Certificate, 18k gold Omega buckle, Omega original Certificate, Omega Extract of the Archives, comprehensive study by Tortella & Sons, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging
Remark: Only six dials decorated with “Neptune” motif known, only 3 have appeared in public. Very good condition for its age
Note: Serial numbers are available upon request

Brought to you by

Alexandre Bigler
Alexandre Bigler SVP, Head of Watches, Asia Pacific

Lot Essay

An example of the finest craftsmanship in enamel and a great horological work of art, this spectacular Neptune cloisonné dial Chronomètre was first discovered in 2012 in the family of the original owner. It is unquestionably the finest and most complete specimen of the five known examples. Moreover, it is quite remarkable that the original Omega Certificate, Seamaster brochure and presentation box have survived intact. Furthermore, this watch, sold to Guatemala on 19 November 1954 houses a Chronometer standard movement and according to the Extract from the Archives it was delivered with a ‘Bulletin de Marche’ or rating certificate.

One of the great rarities of the OAK Collection, it was selected as being the best publicly known example of the legendary ‘Neptune’ cloisonné dial model. Bought by the present owner in 2012 when it was consigned to auction by a descendant of the original owner, it was and remains, an awesome discovery for any aficionado of the very rarest mid-century vintage wristwatches.

Naturally, the most remarkable feature of this ‘Seamaster Neptune’ is its phenomenal cloisonné enamel dial. The ‘Neptune’ cloisonné dial is one of the most coveted Omega watches ever made and this spectacular watch can be therefore be considered the ultimate trophy among all known examples.

Research has resulted in the discovery that an exceedingly small series of possibly only five dials decorated with the ‘Neptune’ design were supplied to Omega by the renowned Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères of Geneva. The dials were made using a solid gold plate decorated by the legendary enamellist Mlle Nelly Richard, one of the finest artists working in enamel in the 20th century.

The reverse of the present dial is bearing the hand-scratched numbers 89 and 576: the first, 89, is Stern's internal client code for Omega. The second, 576, indicates that the order was for a "Neptune" motif, made by the celebrated Nelly Richard who worked for Stern Frères from the late 1940s until the 1950s. The talented Mrs. Richard executed the majority of the cloisonné enamel dials featuring Neptune, dragons and maps commissioned by Omega, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and others.

Founded in 1868, Stern Frères specialized in the production of highest quality dials including dials decorated with cloisonné enamel scenes which were supplied to eminent watch manufacturers.

Watches embellished with a cloisonné enamel dial are amongst the rarest models ever made by Omega. Between 1946 and 1956, the company produced an extremely small series of wristwatches fitted with such cloisonné enamel dials, the total output representing only an infinitely small fraction of the regular production numbers. Often made upon special request and featuring motifs requested by the future owner, many of these rare timepieces are only known from archival images of the dial manufacturers.

The production of solid gold cloisonné-decorated enamel dials was extremely costly as they had to be individually made by a skilled craftsman and not on a production line. The artist created the outline of the desired motif by arranging thin gold wires on a dial. These partitions, called "cloisons" in French, were filled with small quantities of enamel powder in the desired colour. The dial was then fired in a furnace at around 1000 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt into glass. Finally it was hand-polished until obtaining a perfectly flat surface. Entirely hand-made by celebrated enamel artists, notably Nelly Richard, these dials must be regarded as unique works of art in their own right. The talented Mrs. Richard executed the majority of the cloisonné enamel dials featuring Neptune, dragons and maps commissioned by Omega, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and others from the late 1940s until the mid-1950s. From research, it appears that the “Neptune” dial was one of the most expensive designs compared to others made at the same period, Mlle Richard was paid in the region of 86 Francs each for them and Omega was in turn charged around 155 Francs by Stern Frères.

For images and a note on Omega's enamel dials see: Omega - A Journey through Time, Marco Richon, Enamel dials 1946-1956, pp. 713 - 716; an example of a ‘Neptune’ Seamaster, also dating from 1954, is prominently illustrated and described on p. 715, pl. 2589.

Neptune, God of the Seas
One of the most important deities in Roman mythology, Neptune (called Poseidon by the Greeks) was the supreme ruler of the seas. A powerful god, he used his mighty trident not only to provoke earthquakes and stir ocean waves but also to raise new land from beneath the sea or cause existing land to sink below the waters. Neptune was often helpful to humans, protecting sailors at sea, guiding ships to safety, and filling nets with fish. He rode the waves in a chariot drawn by dolphins or sea horses but his most honoured creation was the horse - according to tradition, he was the one who breathed life into the first horse on earth.

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