At the young age of twenty-six, native New Yorker Paulding Farnham joined Tiffany & Co.’s esteemed design department. His style and design language quickly developed, and he was tasked with designing jewels for the Paris Exhibition in 1889. Drawing inspiration from nature, flowers and floral motifs in particular, it was his meticulously crafted orchids made from gold and striking layers of enamel that absolutely captivated collectors’ attention. So much so that he was tasked again to design for the 1900 Exposition in Paris. Developing a close creative relationship with George Kunz, Tiffany & Co.’s chief gemologist, Farnham was given access to the best gemstones to complement his signature enamel work. Not only was his work inspired by flora, but Native American art, court jewelry from Versailles and incredibly intricate Renaissance Revival pieces.

Often referred to as the ‘Lost Genius’, Paulding Farnham established himself as one of the nineteenth century’s most important jewelry designers. Also a skilled sculptor and painter, Farnham stepped down from his role in the Tiffany & Co. design department just as a new era and new designer was being ushered in.

A master glassworker, painter, woodworker, and metalworker amongst being the son of the founder of Tiffany & Co., the iconic craftsman, Louis Comfort Tiffany was, and still is, a celebrated jewelry designer. Best known for his stunning lamps and creations in iridescent glass, his jewelry was influenced by the same fantastical natural elements.

LCT, as he is often referred to, was born in New York City in 1848. Always interested in the arts, he began to travel around the world at the age of seventeen to hone his skills. No doubt drawing great inspiration from extraordinary places in Europe, North Africa and the United States that would be carried with him throughout the entirety of his career.

Prior to becoming Tiffany & Co.’s artistic director in 1902, LCT’s primary focus was on developing his designs in glass. In 1885 he founded the Tiffany Glass Company where he would go on to patent an instantly recognizable style of iridescent glass, favrile glass. Vases and various objets with gestural and flowing shapes were hand-crafted out of this opalescent glass that heavily opposed the prevailing style of the time. Further contrasting the rigid and structural themes of the Industrial Revolution, his large stained-glass works that depict the joys of nature were thought to bring comfort and a sense of calm to the viewer.

Establishing an art jewelry department at the Fifth Avenue store, the first collection of LCT’s jewelry for Tiffany & Co. was debuted at the 1904 St. Louis Exposition. They were distinctly Art Nouveau, but with a clear American Arts and Crafts influence. As was Farnham, LCT was provided with top quality gemstones through George Kunz. Any one of his jewelry creations features gemstones of all types, displaying rich colors, again drawing from vibrancy found in nature.

Through the use of multi-colored sapphires, tourmalines, opals, moonstones, lapis lazuli, garnets and layers of intricate, rich enamel, each Louis Comfort Tiffany creation nods to something of past while looking to the future. This undoubtedly cementing his distinct style in jewelry history.