The pinnacle of jewelry design, the ‘Mystery-set’, or ‘Serti Mystérieux’, exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ revolutionary eye for design and the spirit of innovation. This exceptional technique perfected by only a few master jewelers referred to as ‘grandes mains’, or ‘great hands’, transcends technical perfection whilst reflecting the art of the jeweler. So rare is the skill necessary to craft a Mystery-set jewel that the title is exclusively reserved for creations by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The technique was first conceived at 22 Place Vendôme in the early 1930s by Mr. Alfred Van Cleef, an innovative genius and lover of beauty, and Mr. Julien Arpels, a connoisseur of the finest precious gemstones. The ‘Mystery-set’ is simply defined as the setting of precious gemstones in a close pattern without a trace of metal or prongs. The technique was first applied to objects with flat surfaces and overtime was extended to more complex curved or bombé forms.

Rather than the constraints of prongs or metal claws, the ‘Mystery-set’ is composed of a lattice of delicate gold or platinum threads that form a net, only visible from the reverse of the jewel. The jeweler then carefully selects only the best quality gemstones to calibrate and cut to fit precisely within the overall design. Each stone is given four extra facets to create subtle effects of light and shadow and then incised with a special groove cut just beneath the girdle of each stone, allowing it to slide onto the metal threads of the lattice. The final result is an elegant mosaic of color and light.

Taking an average of 1,200 hours to complete just one ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, this elaborate process is a testament to the exceptional craftsmanship, dedication and ambition of the firm’s artistic and technical vision that makes these jewels a true inspiration for jewelry designers and collectors alike.