Breguet, No. 3388. A very fine and extremely rare 20K gold hunter cased half-quarter repeating jumping hour watch with ruby cylinder escapement
Breguet, No. 3388. A very fine and extremely rare 20K gold hunter cased half-quarter repeating jumping hour watch with ruby cylinder escapement
Breguet, No. 3388. A very fine and extremely rare 20K gold hunter cased half-quarter repeating jumping hour watch with ruby cylinder escapement
Breguet, No. 3388. A very fine and extremely rare 20K gold hunter cased half-quarter repeating jumping hour watch with ruby cylinder escapement
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On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT wil… Read more BREGUETNo. 3388 - Sold to The Duke of Norfolk
BREGUET, NO. 3388. A VERY FINE AND EXTREMELY RARE 20K GOLD HUNTER CASED HALF-QUARTER REPEATING JUMPING HOUR WATCH WITH RUBY CYLINDER ESCAPEMENT

Signed Breguet, Horloger de la Marine Royale, No. 3388, ‘Montre Première Classe’, sold to Monsieur Germain on 16 September 1820, resold to the Duke of Norfolk on 29 August 1821 for 2,400 Francs

Details
BREGUET, NO. 3388. A VERY FINE AND EXTREMELY RARE 20K GOLD HUNTER CASED HALF-QUARTER REPEATING JUMPING HOUR WATCH WITH RUBY CYLINDER ESCAPEMENT
Signed Breguet, Horloger de la Marine Royale, No. 3388, ‘Montre Première Classe’, sold to Monsieur Germain on 16 September 1820, resold to the Duke of Norfolk on 29 August 1821 for 2,400 Francs
Movement: 21’’’, gilt brass, bridge caliber, hanging barrel with continuous stop work, 12 jewels, ruby cylinder escapement, three-arm gilt balance, flat balance spring, compensating curb, pare-chute on the top pivot, repeating with a single hammer via intermediate steel block on short gong activated by a pull-and-twist piston in the pendant.
Dial: Silver, by Tavernier, secret signature repeated on each side of numeral ‘XII’, eccentric subsidiary seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock, engine-turned center, secured by a screw
Case: Four-body, by Tavernier, no. 3675, engine-turned, gold detachable cuvette, 54 mm., diam.
Provenance
Monsieur Germain, September 1820
Frederick Louis Fatton, Breguet's independent agent in London, July 1821
Bernard Edward Howard, 12th Duke of Norfolk, August 1821
Antiquorum Geneva, ‘The Art of Breguet’, 14 April, 1991, lot 36
An Important Private Collection
Special Notice
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT will be charged at 7.7% on both the premium as well as the hammer price.

Lot Essay

Sold to the premier Duke of England, the Duke of Norfolk, this superb example of a rare Breguet hunting cased watch is fitted with several of Breguet’s best known technical features including the ruby cylinder escapement, half-quarter repeating and jump hours.

According to the Breguet Archives, this watch, described as being ‘Première Classe’, was constructed between 1818 and 1820. It was first sold to a Monsieur Germain on 16 September 1820 for the sum of 2400 Francs. It was bought back, as was Breguet’s practice, and sent to Fatton in London, for the same price, on 13 July 1821. Just over a month later it sold to His Grace the 12th Duke of Norfolk.

Returning to auction after almost 20 years in one of the world’s great watch collections, the present watch has exalted noble provenance and is an epitome of Breguet's work, a highlight for the enthusiast of outstanding timepieces.

Interestingly, in common with most of Breguet's hunting cased key wound watches, the dial is positioned with the numerals XII below the pendant rather than the position favoured by the vast majority of other makers where the III is placed in this position. Often preferred by Breguet’s English clients, perhaps due to their love of outdoor pursuits, it is thought that only about 150 hunting cased watches were made.

The construction used for the hammer to strike the gong in this watch is Breguet’s most sophisticated: when the repeating is activated the hammer does not make direct contact with the coiled gong. Placed between the hammer and gong is an intermediary solid hammer fixed to the plate by screws, the primary hammer in fact makes contact with the fixed hammer which in turn strike the gong. This system was developed by Michel Weber, Breguet's chief craftsman in June 1793 and was intended to improve the sound of the gong. Breguet said "we will equip all our best watches with this system in future".

A feature found in a number of Breguet's repeaters is the jump hour. The hand stands stationary until about three minutes to the hour when it begins to move. By the time it is half way to the next hour the minute hand will be at the hour and the hour hand will jump the remaining distance to the hour.

The Duke of Norfolk is the premier Duke in the peerage of England, and also, as Earl of Arundel, the premier Earl. The Duke of Norfolk is, moreover, the Earl Marshal and Hereditary Marshal of England. The seat of the Dukes of Norfolk is Arundel Castle in Sussex, although the title refers to the county of Norfolk. The dukes of Norfolk have historically been Catholic, a state of affairs known as recusancy in England.

Bernard Edward Howard, 12th Duke of Norfolk (21 November 1765 – 16 March 1842)
Bernard Howard succeeded to the title of Duke of Norfolk in 1815 upon the death of his cousin Charles Howard, 11th Duke of Norfolk. An ardent Roman Catholic, like most of his family, he strongly supported Catholic Emancipation, and gave offence to his Protestant neighbours by giving a banquet to celebrate the passage of the Roman Catholic Relief Act 1829. He was also known as the Grumpy Duke. He was elected a Foreign Honorary Member of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences in 1803. In 1834, the Duke of Norfolk was invested by King William IV into the Order of the Garter.

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