Lot Essay
This extremely attractive pocket watch was made by a legend in the field of watchmaking – louis Cottier, better known as the ‘Father of World Time”. Cottier achieved huge acclaim for his invention (in 1931) and then improvement (in the early 1950s) of his now famous world time system for watches which was unquestionably one of the most significant advances in watchmaking made during the 20th century and most closely associated today with Patek Philippe. The present watch is highly significant in being signed on the movement “L. Cottier” - a very exciting discovery because, to the best of our knowledge, only a handful of timepieces made by Louis Cottier under his own name are known publicly. Christie’s is therefore delighted to be able to offer this important and immense rarity to international collectors.
It is said that simplicity is true luxury and with this watch, Louis Cottier has created a symphony in simplicity, yet every detail is considered and of the finest manufacture. With a superb two-tone silvered dial with bold Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds, the case is made by one of the best case makers of the period in Geneva, Antoine Gerlach, who is best known for making the cases of some of Patek Philippe’s most important wristwatches including the reference 2523 two-crown world time (which is fitted with Cottier’s world time system), reference 3448 and reference 96 among others. The movement is signed “L. Cottier Genève” and is stamped twice with the seal of Geneva quality mark.
Louis Cottier (1894-1966) was born in Carouge, the son of Emmanuel Cottier, also a watchmaker. Louis Cottier opened his own workshop in Carouge as an independent maker of watches, wristwatches and small clocks. He was evidently well known and respected enough that the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf engaged him to restore and service his own collection. Cottier was interested in and experimented with unusual forms of timekeeping mechanisms and displays including jumping digital hours and the like. However, the invention that was to eventually make his name came in 1931 when he invented the “Heure Universelle” (World Time) mechanism. The first world time watch was produced for the jeweller Baszanger and the system was also adopted by several makers including Agassiz, most famously Patek Philippe with references 605, 1415 and 2523, Rolex and Vacheron Constantin. In the 1950s, Louis Cottier upgraded the original mechanism by the addition of a second crown to make the practical use of the complication easier. Research indicates that only approximately 455 movements were supplied for wristwatches, pocket watches and clocks by Cottier, indisputably one of the most important Swiss watchmakers of the 20th century.
It is said that simplicity is true luxury and with this watch, Louis Cottier has created a symphony in simplicity, yet every detail is considered and of the finest manufacture. With a superb two-tone silvered dial with bold Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds, the case is made by one of the best case makers of the period in Geneva, Antoine Gerlach, who is best known for making the cases of some of Patek Philippe’s most important wristwatches including the reference 2523 two-crown world time (which is fitted with Cottier’s world time system), reference 3448 and reference 96 among others. The movement is signed “L. Cottier Genève” and is stamped twice with the seal of Geneva quality mark.
Louis Cottier (1894-1966) was born in Carouge, the son of Emmanuel Cottier, also a watchmaker. Louis Cottier opened his own workshop in Carouge as an independent maker of watches, wristwatches and small clocks. He was evidently well known and respected enough that the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf engaged him to restore and service his own collection. Cottier was interested in and experimented with unusual forms of timekeeping mechanisms and displays including jumping digital hours and the like. However, the invention that was to eventually make his name came in 1931 when he invented the “Heure Universelle” (World Time) mechanism. The first world time watch was produced for the jeweller Baszanger and the system was also adopted by several makers including Agassiz, most famously Patek Philippe with references 605, 1415 and 2523, Rolex and Vacheron Constantin. In the 1950s, Louis Cottier upgraded the original mechanism by the addition of a second crown to make the practical use of the complication easier. Research indicates that only approximately 455 movements were supplied for wristwatches, pocket watches and clocks by Cottier, indisputably one of the most important Swiss watchmakers of the 20th century.