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Lot Essay
With a magnificent 'one-of-a-kind' special order ruby-set dial, this pink gold reference 3974R embodies the perfect Patek Philippe combination of mechanical complexity, unique dial design and ultimate exclusivity – undoubtedly the most noble specimen of the 3974R in existence, it affords collectors with a once in a generation opportunity to possess this astonishing timepiece.
In 1989, when the reference 3974 was launched, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch. With only around 160 examples ever made in total, it is not only one of the rarest, but one of the most technically sophisticated Patek Grande Complications of the period. It is therefore very exciting to present this unique example, not only with a pink gold Jean-Pierre Hagmann case – a great rarity in itself, but also with the bespoke Patek Philippe, Extract confirmed, Ruby-set dial. The present self-winding minute repeating perpetual calendar moon phase wristwatch, is exclusive on so many levels that it is certainly no exaggeration to say that it can be considered as the most important individual example of the reference 3974 ever to be offered at international auction.
The Dial
Originally supplied with a standard 3974 dial as recorded on the Certificate of Origin, the present unique dial with ruby-set hour indexes was commissioned directly from Patek Philippe by the then owner to satisfy his need for ruby-set watches in order to match his fabulous collection of complicated Pateks. Naturally, the ruby-set dial is now fully recorded in the Patek Philippe archives and confirmed by the Extract from the Archives.
The Case
It is thought that no more than 15 reference 3974 were cased in pink gold, to date only four examples have ever been seen publicly. Early specimens of the model such as the present watch had their impressive cases of highest quality supplied by the famous casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann of Geneva, his hallmark JPH stamped underneath the lower left lug. Later examples were fitted with Patek Philippe’s in-house Atéliers Réunis cases.
Originally trained as a jeweller, Jean-Pierre Hagmann set up his own company in 1984, specializing in the manufacture of custom-made high quality watch cases. He worked for several of the world's most famous watch manufactures, notably Patek Philippe, to whom he supplied amongst others, cases for references 3974, 3979, 5016 and 5029, all models of the firm's ’Grand Complication’ series.
The Movement
The ingenious calibre 27 RQ impresses not only by its remarkable number of 467 parts but also by Patek Philippe's masterly performance of combining a 22K micro-rotor, minute repeating, perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon mechanisms in a proportionally small 12 ½ ligne movement. Reference 3974 has become a modern classic epitomizing the strengths and wonderful acoustics of Patek Philippe minute repeaters. This highly sought-after reference ceased production in 2000 and is regarded as one of the most desirable minute repeating wristwatches of the last 30 years.
Reference 3974
One of the most important watches ever made in series by Patek Philippe, reference 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, at the time not only the firm's but also the world's most complicated wristwatch. The very first movement was numbered 1'906'000.
Research has revealed that only around 160 examples of ref. 3974 were ever made, the greater majority in yellow gold.
Reference 3974 is illustrated in : Patek Philippe Watches - Patek Philippe Museum, Vol. II, p. 325, and in : Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 325.
In 1989, when the reference 3974 was launched, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch. With only around 160 examples ever made in total, it is not only one of the rarest, but one of the most technically sophisticated Patek Grande Complications of the period. It is therefore very exciting to present this unique example, not only with a pink gold Jean-Pierre Hagmann case – a great rarity in itself, but also with the bespoke Patek Philippe, Extract confirmed, Ruby-set dial. The present self-winding minute repeating perpetual calendar moon phase wristwatch, is exclusive on so many levels that it is certainly no exaggeration to say that it can be considered as the most important individual example of the reference 3974 ever to be offered at international auction.
The Dial
Originally supplied with a standard 3974 dial as recorded on the Certificate of Origin, the present unique dial with ruby-set hour indexes was commissioned directly from Patek Philippe by the then owner to satisfy his need for ruby-set watches in order to match his fabulous collection of complicated Pateks. Naturally, the ruby-set dial is now fully recorded in the Patek Philippe archives and confirmed by the Extract from the Archives.
The Case
It is thought that no more than 15 reference 3974 were cased in pink gold, to date only four examples have ever been seen publicly. Early specimens of the model such as the present watch had their impressive cases of highest quality supplied by the famous casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann of Geneva, his hallmark JPH stamped underneath the lower left lug. Later examples were fitted with Patek Philippe’s in-house Atéliers Réunis cases.
Originally trained as a jeweller, Jean-Pierre Hagmann set up his own company in 1984, specializing in the manufacture of custom-made high quality watch cases. He worked for several of the world's most famous watch manufactures, notably Patek Philippe, to whom he supplied amongst others, cases for references 3974, 3979, 5016 and 5029, all models of the firm's ’Grand Complication’ series.
The Movement
The ingenious calibre 27 RQ impresses not only by its remarkable number of 467 parts but also by Patek Philippe's masterly performance of combining a 22K micro-rotor, minute repeating, perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon mechanisms in a proportionally small 12 ½ ligne movement. Reference 3974 has become a modern classic epitomizing the strengths and wonderful acoustics of Patek Philippe minute repeaters. This highly sought-after reference ceased production in 2000 and is regarded as one of the most desirable minute repeating wristwatches of the last 30 years.
Reference 3974
One of the most important watches ever made in series by Patek Philippe, reference 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, at the time not only the firm's but also the world's most complicated wristwatch. The very first movement was numbered 1'906'000.
Research has revealed that only around 160 examples of ref. 3974 were ever made, the greater majority in yellow gold.
Reference 3974 is illustrated in : Patek Philippe Watches - Patek Philippe Museum, Vol. II, p. 325, and in : Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 325.