拍品专文
Accompanied by a Vacheron Constantin presentation box and outer packaging.
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The Art of Skeletonizing
Within the watch world, there is a general consensus that a skeleton watch is one in which the plates and bridges of the movement have been cut away to leave only which the watch needs to function. Often in today's world, an open dial watch is referred to as a skeleton, in which the dial has been removed to see the movement.
In removing the excess metal from the movement, the remainder left an intricate design on its own, but also left a little room for the watchmaker to engrave a design or pattern on the remaining metal. This type of delicate design work takes a very skilled artisan, like those found at the manufacture of Vacheron Constantin.
Throughout its history, Vacheron Constantin has placed an emphasis on the types of decorative work that were often passed down in families, from generation to generation - enamelling, gem-setting, and engraving.
The Engraving Process
The process of engraving begins with the engraver fixing a component to be engraved on a type of wax material, which becomes a solid state when cooled. The engraver will remove slivers of metal, using the same tools that engravers have used for the last several centuries. Any errors or slips cannot be fixed, and the component has to be melted down and re-created. The engraving allows light to catch and reflect off of the metal in a way that would not happen on a flat piece of metal. Once the engraved pattern is complete, it is removed from the wax material and cleaned, and then given a final polish.
Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Watches
The brand's first skeleton watch dates to 1924, during the Art Deco era when many brands were experimenting with design features such as gem-setting, innovative shapes, and enamelling. The very first Vacheron Constantin skeleton watch was housed in a rock crystal case, with a platinum band, set with sapphires - very much encompassing several Art Deco features in one watch. The brand continued this tradition of skeletonized watches, and went on to produce a number of desk clocks with skeletonized movements held between two sapphire panels, with movements featuring a remontoire d'égalité with constant force.
Vacheron Constantin continued to produce skeletonized pocket watches through the 1960's, when in 1964 it created the first skeletonized wristwatch, probably specially commissioned by an important client. This first watch did not actually have the special engraving on the movement, and is more of an open dial watch, than a skeleton watch by definition. In the early 1970's, Vacheron Constantin took their caliber 1003, created in 1955 as the thinnest watch movement ever, and skeletonized the movement - thus creating the caliber 1003SQ - SQ for squelette, the French word for "skeleton". This led to production of their first "serially" manufactured skeletonized wristwatches.
For awhile, Vacheron Constantin only produced time-only pieces with skeletonized movements, but starting in the mid-1990's began producing skeletonized versions of tourbillons and minute repeaters. These watches were very-well received by the international watch community, and led to the further production of skeletonized pieces throughout their model range. Vacheron Constantin also began adding skeletonized features to some of its limited edition timepieces, such as a skeletonized rotor which would be seen through a sapphire crystal display back.
Today, Vacheron Constantin is one of the few watch manufacturers to embrace traditional design techniques, with engraving being one of the most difficult and at the same time most rewarding. The level of expertise needed to produce these beautiful and functional watches, from the most simple time-only to the highly complicated, makes a skeletonized watch a necessary part of any watch aficionado's collection.
Special Thank You to Alexander Ghotbi and The Hour Lounge for Providing Information
Vacheron Constantin. A Fine 18k Gold Skeletonized Keyless Lever Dress Watch
SIGNED VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENÈVE, MOVEMENT NO. 767'700, CASE NO. 602'252, MANUFACTURED IN 1991
细节
Vacheron Constantin. A Fine 18k Gold Skeletonized Keyless Lever Dress Watch
Signed Vacheron Constantin, Genève, Movement No. 767'700, Case No. 602'252, Manufactured in 1991
Finely engraved skeletonized lever movement, 20 jewels, black hands, circular case, ribbed bezel, snap on case back, case and movement signed
43mm diam.
Signed Vacheron Constantin, Genève, Movement No. 767'700, Case No. 602'252, Manufactured in 1991
Finely engraved skeletonized lever movement, 20 jewels, black hands, circular case, ribbed bezel, snap on case back, case and movement signed
43mm diam.