Paulding Farnham is considered to be one of the greatest American designers in the history of jewelry. He is widely known for his exceptional creations during his time at Tiffany & Co. Farnham’s designs incorporated nature’s flora, Native American motifs, and Orientalism and within these boundaries he created some of his greatest works.

It was with Farnham’s arrival around 1880 that Tiffany & Co. unveiled some of the most important Native American-inspired jewelry and objects of the time. The present ’Hupa’ brooch is a clear representation of Farnham’s devotion to the strong abstractions of Native American design. The brooch, set with American gemstones and pearls, was inspired by the intricate basket work of the Hupa Indians in California. With more than 170 pearls and turquoise-colored enamel, this brooch was displayed at Paris Universal Exposition in 1889 and was valued as USD 650.

The Paris Universal Exposition in 1889 was extremely important for both Farnham and Tiffany & Co. Not only did the Exposition mark the hundredth anniversary of the French Revolution and the introduction of the Eiffel Tower, it also prompted creators to showcase their most innovative and artistic designs. With Farnham’s contributions, Tiffany & Co. earned the gold medal for jewelry – an accolade that was not only praised by the American public, but for the first time, renowned international firms recognized the United States and Tiffany & Co. as a strong contributors to jewelry design.