Cartier. A fine and rare platinum and 18K gold square-shaped wristwatch
Cartier. A fine and rare platinum and 18K gold square-shaped wristwatch

SIGNED CARTIER, BTÉ S.G.D.G., SANTOS MODEL, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO. INC., CASE NOS. 22'510, 4469 AND 13'753, CIRCA 1915

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Cartier. A fine and rare platinum and 18K gold square-shaped wristwatch
Signed Cartier, Bté S.G.D.G., Santos model, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., case nos. 22'510, 4469 and 13'753, circa 1915
Cal. 10''' circular nickel-finished lever movement, 18 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, silvered matte dial, Roman numerals, blued steel moon style hands, inner railway minute divisions, square platinum case, rounded corners, raised platinum bezel, cabochon sapphire-set crown, gold back secured by four gold screws in the sides, platinum deployant clasp stamped EJ for Edmond Jaeger and numbered 15'280, case hand-stamped with Cartier reference numbers, dial signed Cartier, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.
25 mm. wide & 34 mm. overall length

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拍品專文

The present watch is a fine and early example of Cartier's very first "true" wristwatch, e.g. the first wristwatch in the history of watchmaking conceived to be strapped onto a wrist: the "Santos Dumont", designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont.

Its dial is marked "Bté S.G.D.G.", abbreviation for "Breveté sans Garantie du Gouvernement" or "without government guarantee", a legal disclaimer used in France releasing the state from any responsibility for the effective functioning of the patented device.

The watch is furthermore fitted with a platinum deployant clasp stamped EJ for Edmond Jaeger, designed by Jaeger in collaboration with Louis Cartier and patented in 1910.

For a 1911 design of the "Santos" model see Le Temps de Cartier by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti, Franco Nencini, p. 51.