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As one of the ultimate symbols of wealth and power, jewelry has enriched India’s culture for more than five thousand years. Throughout history, as formally structured social and religious systems developed, jewelry became the means by which an individual’s social status was differentiated. Ornamenting the body with jewels was closely associated with court ceremonies of emperors, Maharajas and their family members and reflected the extravagance and luxury of their way of life. Jewelry, however, was not confined exclusively to the upper class; those of inferior classes also adorned their bodies with precious stones.The Mughal dynasty (1526-1707) marked a time period, in which emperors actively encouraged art and craftsmanship. Those who worked for the court set the standard for jewelry design. The techniques and styles that evolved spread throughout the entire Indian subcontinent and continued to influence craftsmanship in later centuries. Outside the court, goldsmiths and silversmiths worked to provide their clients with accessible jewels inspired by those worn in the aristocracy.India’s landscape, lush with a variety of natural resources, allowed for craftsman to have access to many materials such as diamonds, gemstones, pearls and precious metals. As exhibited in Lots 70-75, the use of table-cut diamonds, pearl fringe, emerald and spinel stones and beads were widely used. It was also during this era that the technique of enameling was elevated to a true art form. The following collection of Indian jewels, which span from the eighteenth century to the late nineteenth century, exhibit the use of this beautifully crafted enamel. Bold colors of red, green, blue and white embellish the metal and highlight the gemstones mounted in each piece. Often concealed on the reverse, the enameling in these examples reveal floral, foliate and bird motifs, each a popular theme in Indian artistry.Christie’s is proud to present this collection of fine Indian jewelry.PROPERTY OF A LADY
A MID TO LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY DIAMOND, EMERALD, PEARL AND ENAMEL GULUBAND
細節
A MID TO LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY DIAMOND, EMERALD, PEARL AND ENAMEL GULUBAND
Comprising thirteen hinged square panels, each set with a central table-cut diamond, within a diamond and enamel surround suspending a diamond, emerald bead, and pearl fringe to a single line pearl surmount, the reverse of foliate design depicting red poppy flowers on white enamel background with diamond set terminals strung on a silk cord, North Indian, mid to late nineteenth century, 11 ins., mounted in gold (few pearls and two emerald beads deficient)
Comprising thirteen hinged square panels, each set with a central table-cut diamond, within a diamond and enamel surround suspending a diamond, emerald bead, and pearl fringe to a single line pearl surmount, the reverse of foliate design depicting red poppy flowers on white enamel background with diamond set terminals strung on a silk cord, North Indian, mid to late nineteenth century, 11 ins., mounted in gold (few pearls and two emerald beads deficient)
出版
Cf. Usha R. Bala Krishnan, Jewels of the Nizams, Government of India 2001, pages 120 & 121
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Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin