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拍品專文
The present Rolex reference 6100 - 'Les Armoiries' (or 'The Arms' as in coat of arms) - is an extraordinary and highly important example of a Rolex wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial. Its exclusivity and desirability is further enhanced by its spectacular overall condition.
To the best of our knowledge, only three Rolex wristwatches featuring a cloisonné enamel dial decorated with a coat of arms are known to date. The dial of the present watch is the only one known in this configuration and is probably unique.
Decorated by perhaps the greatest enamel artist of the period, Marguerite Koch, this reference 6100 is a stratospheric rarity even among the already ultra-rare Rolex time-only references with cloisonné enamel dials. Furthermore, it has wonderful and impeccable provenance. According to the family of its first owner, a South American art collector, the watch was purchased during a visit to Geneva around 1952 and descended in the same family until the original owner’s grandson consigned it for sale at Christie’s New York in 2015. Until that point it had remained completely unknown for over 60 years. Since 2015, it has been a highlight of perhaps the greatest private watch collection in the world. Now Christie’s is extremely honoured and delighted to be able to offer one of the major Rolex artisan rarities once again to a new generation of international collectors.
The Cloisonné Dial
The dial of the present watch should not be underestimated as a unique and entirely handmade work of art. It was created by one of the great enamel artists of the mid-20 century, Marguerite Koch, whose confidence and experience in working in the very difficult medium of ‘grand feu’ enamelling has rarely, if ever, been equalled. Most interestingly, the wonderful original watercolour design for present dial has been identified in the work books of the dial makers Stern Frères as no. 3679 and confirms that it was made by Marguerite Koch.
The serial number 103 [star] 679 on the back of the dial is the correct coding '103' which was used by Stern Frères to denote dials made for Rolex, while the '679' was the record of the specific dial, the star between the two sets of numbers also on the back of the dial is the symbol used by Stern Frères. This enamel dial is an incredible work of art that impresses with both its luminosity and artistic flamboyancy, the enamel of the helmet is brilliantly deep and rich, in an almost jade-like colour. It stands in stark contrast to the rich colours of the enamel as well as the gold stars and fleur-de-lis that is likely made out of platinum, white gold or silver. The rich and unusual matte black enamel is a slightly imperfect circle, showing that imperfection can be beautiful and visually compelling in its own way. The stunning gold around the outer edge of the dial with gorgeous faceted gold hour and pearl-like minute markers harmonizes with the gold case, bestowing the watch with an incredible visual interest and power compared with other Stern Frères enamel dials. According to heraldic blazon, the coat of arms on this watch is: Gules (red), a chevron between in chief two mullets [stars] each of five points or [gold] and in base a fleur-de-lis argent (silver). The shield is surmounted by a helmet, mantled gules (red] and or (gold). Based on our research, it is likely that the coat of arms is an artistic creation.
Vintage cloisonné dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is more tonal and characterful than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer be used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.
To the best of our knowledge, only three Rolex wristwatches featuring a cloisonné enamel dial decorated with a coat of arms are known to date. The dial of the present watch is the only one known in this configuration and is probably unique.
Decorated by perhaps the greatest enamel artist of the period, Marguerite Koch, this reference 6100 is a stratospheric rarity even among the already ultra-rare Rolex time-only references with cloisonné enamel dials. Furthermore, it has wonderful and impeccable provenance. According to the family of its first owner, a South American art collector, the watch was purchased during a visit to Geneva around 1952 and descended in the same family until the original owner’s grandson consigned it for sale at Christie’s New York in 2015. Until that point it had remained completely unknown for over 60 years. Since 2015, it has been a highlight of perhaps the greatest private watch collection in the world. Now Christie’s is extremely honoured and delighted to be able to offer one of the major Rolex artisan rarities once again to a new generation of international collectors.
The Cloisonné Dial
The dial of the present watch should not be underestimated as a unique and entirely handmade work of art. It was created by one of the great enamel artists of the mid-20 century, Marguerite Koch, whose confidence and experience in working in the very difficult medium of ‘grand feu’ enamelling has rarely, if ever, been equalled. Most interestingly, the wonderful original watercolour design for present dial has been identified in the work books of the dial makers Stern Frères as no. 3679 and confirms that it was made by Marguerite Koch.
The serial number 103 [star] 679 on the back of the dial is the correct coding '103' which was used by Stern Frères to denote dials made for Rolex, while the '679' was the record of the specific dial, the star between the two sets of numbers also on the back of the dial is the symbol used by Stern Frères. This enamel dial is an incredible work of art that impresses with both its luminosity and artistic flamboyancy, the enamel of the helmet is brilliantly deep and rich, in an almost jade-like colour. It stands in stark contrast to the rich colours of the enamel as well as the gold stars and fleur-de-lis that is likely made out of platinum, white gold or silver. The rich and unusual matte black enamel is a slightly imperfect circle, showing that imperfection can be beautiful and visually compelling in its own way. The stunning gold around the outer edge of the dial with gorgeous faceted gold hour and pearl-like minute markers harmonizes with the gold case, bestowing the watch with an incredible visual interest and power compared with other Stern Frères enamel dials. According to heraldic blazon, the coat of arms on this watch is: Gules (red), a chevron between in chief two mullets [stars] each of five points or [gold] and in base a fleur-de-lis argent (silver). The shield is surmounted by a helmet, mantled gules (red] and or (gold). Based on our research, it is likely that the coat of arms is an artistic creation.
Vintage cloisonné dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is more tonal and characterful than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer be used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.