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Lot Essay
Ref. 2523J HU DE, Cloisonné Dial ‘Eurasia’ – One of The World’s Great Vintage Patek Philippe Wristwatches
Today, a small number of wristwatches stand at the very highest level, without question regarded as great mid-century works of art, with the added fascination of being both highly portable and entirely functional. Indeed, this formidable reference 2523 two-crown world time wristwatch is also a literal work of art in featuring a breathtakingly beautiful handmade cloisonné enamel dial that is attributed to one of the most important enamel artists of the time – Marguerite Koch. Naturally, for the manufacture of a complicated wristwatch of this magnitude, Patek Philippe not only employed the best artisan dial maker but also the most skilled case maker, and fitted the finest available manually wound movement of the period adapted with the world time system by Louis Cottier himself.
Many of the finest and rarest specimens of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches are now held by world-renowned international collectors and museums, each year fewer and fewer of the great classic references of the mid-20th century reach the open market. It is therefore an event of major significance when a truly stellar Patek Philippe legend returns to auction after long residing in such a private collection. This handmade product of the greatest minds and artistically talented craftsmen and women of the time is one of only three Patek Philippe reference 2523J HU DE to be made with a cloisonné enamel map dial depicting ‘Eurasia’ known to still exist today. Of the two other known examples, one is part of the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, the other now in a private collection.
One of the undisputed giants among all vintage Patek Philippe complicated wristwatches, this historic world time watch has an immense status even amongst the ultra-rare two crown world time model. Christie’s is incredibly honoured to be able to offer this reference 2523 here at auction for the first time in over 20 years since its last public appearance in 2002. Its ultra exclusivity and desirability is further enhanced by its spectacular beauty and overall condition.
Every cloisonné dial two-crown reference 2523 is an ultimate world-class rarity, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Combining the highest degree of scarcity with the beauty and permanence of grand feu enamel artistry and the confident simplicity of 1950s design, the present reference 2523 ‘Eurasia’ represents perhaps the only remaining chance to obtain one of these masterworks from the ‘golden age’ of Patek Philippe wristwatches. It can be said without exaggeration that this watch would be a sensational centrepiece for any important international collection.
Reference 2523 was made in very small numbers indeed, a total of only 26 examples were ever made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold. About a dozen examples were fitted with cloisonné dials, and of those, only three including the present watch are known with the continent of ‘Europe’ map, called ‘Eurasia’ by collectors.
The Three Known Reference 2523 with Cloisonné Dial ‘Eurasia’
Movement no. 720’301, case no. 306’193 – Phillips Geneva, May 2021
Movement no. 720’303, case no. 306’197 – Patek Philippe Museum
Movement no. 720’304, case no. 306’201 – The Present Watch
A Detailed Study of the Present Watch
The Dial
Made circa 1952, by Stern Frères. The world time dial bears the names of 41 cities in French. The cloisonné enamel map can be attributed to Marguerite Koch and represents the very best in artisan handcrafts of the time. Every cloisonné enamel dial, even those of identical pattern or theme are unique works of art, differing from one another because the enamel artist created each dial by eye and the enamel colours can also vary in tone due to the slight variations in temperature during firing, for instance some blues are more sparkling and yellows more intense.
The Case
No. 306’201, made in 1954-55, by Antoine Gerlach, Geneva master casemaker whose mark of a number 4 in a key is punched inside the caseback. Well preserved with clearly visible sharp hallmarks, the lugs maintain sharp edges, as does the bezel which is correctly numbered with the last three digits of the case number ‘201’. The polishing and satiné brushing to the case has been refreshed at some time in the past. The two crowns made of solid 18k gold by Boninchi Frères, are original. The winding crown is larger.
The Movement
No. 720’304, made in 1953, calibre 12 400 HU (Heures Universelles) with Cottier’s dial modification; monometallic balance, swan-neck micrometer regulator. The calibre 12 400, evolved from the calibre 12 120, it was made from 1950 and was numbered from 720’000 to 729’999. It was the best 12’’’ calibre with subsidiary seconds of its time with 18 jewels and 18’000 oscillations.
The World Time System
The revolutionary world time system - or ‘Heures Universelles’ was designed and patented in the early 1930s by legendary watchmaker Louis Cottier (1884-1966). Patek Philippe immediately saw its potential and commissioned Cottier with the development and production of a series of ‘World Time’ watches.
The world time mechanism of the reference 2523 is a functional complication that is simple to calibrate. One must first set the local or mean time by the crown at 3 o'clock (the 24 hour ring will revolve in the opposite direction of the hands). Then the outer ring is adjusted by turning the crown at 9 o'clock until one's current global location is indicated at the 12 o'clock position. Once this is calibrated, the relative time of each world location is set. The two-tone 24-hour ring indicates world locations that are in night time by the grey section and daytime by the silvered section.
History of the Reference 2523 HU, 1953-1957
Ref. 2523 HU (Heures Universelles) was launched in 1953, produced in replacement of the former ref. 1415 HU (1939-1954).
Louis Cottier, a Geneva watchmaker who invented the ‘World Time’ system in the mid 1930s, delivered around 45 modified caliber “12 400” movements to Patek Philippe gradually from 1953 until 1965; the calibre 12 400, becoming 12 400 HU with Cottier’s modification. It is thought that in total only 26 watches were cased with ref. 2523, 18 in yellow gold, 7 in pink gold, 1 white gold. Even though ref. 2523 was listed and sold until the mid-1960’s, the 25 yellow or pink gold cases were ordered between 1953 and 1954 and the only white gold known in 1955. The yellow and pink cases were gradually delivered to Patek until 1957. After 1957, 20 more ref. 2523-1, with less prominent lugs, were made, about the same case distribution ratio. The tree-piece cases of the ref 2523 and 2523-1 (35.5mm diam.) were all made by Antoine Gerlach. The dials were made by Stern Frères, in particular the outer world time ring, and the decorated centre of the dial by superb enamel artists such as Nelly Richard or Marguerite Koch, both working almost exclusively for the Stern dial company. The ref. 2523 was usually produced with enamel dial decoration, translucent or cloisonné, or with a metal dial. Oppositely, ref. 2523-1 was made only with a metal dial.
The Cloisonné Dial
Cloisonné enamel dials quite naturally take a prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship and rarity. Highly detailed and made by the very best enamel artists of the period, cloisonné enamel dials can be found decorated with other popular subjects such as tropical oasis, sail boats, flowers, portraits and maps. The dial maker Stern Frères supplied most of the great watch houses. The production of these solid gold dials was extremely costly as they had to be individually made by a skilled craftsman and not on a production line. The artist created the outline of the desired motif by arranging thin gold wires on a dial. These partitions, called ‘cloisons’ in French, were filled with small quantities of enamel powder in the desired colour. The dial was then fired in an oven at around 900 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it was hand-polished until a perfectly flat surface was obtained. Hand-made by celebrated enamel artists, notably Nelly Richard and Marguerite Koch, these dials can be regarded as unique works of art in their own right.
Vintage cloisonné dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is softer and more tonal than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
PROVENANCE
1955: The original owner.
1999: Antiquorum, Geneva.
2002: Antiquorum, Geneva.
2002-2012: An important American Collection.
2012: An important South East Asian Collection.
Literature:
Four ref. 2523 are displayed in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.
Ref. 2523 watches are illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, 1998 edition, pp. 240 to 242.
Other examples are illustrated in: Patek Philippe Museum book, 2014 edition, Volume 2, pp.345 & 346.
Ref. 2523 watches are illustrated in: Blue Book 2, Eric Tortella, 2019 edition, pp. 354 to 399.
Today, a small number of wristwatches stand at the very highest level, without question regarded as great mid-century works of art, with the added fascination of being both highly portable and entirely functional. Indeed, this formidable reference 2523 two-crown world time wristwatch is also a literal work of art in featuring a breathtakingly beautiful handmade cloisonné enamel dial that is attributed to one of the most important enamel artists of the time – Marguerite Koch. Naturally, for the manufacture of a complicated wristwatch of this magnitude, Patek Philippe not only employed the best artisan dial maker but also the most skilled case maker, and fitted the finest available manually wound movement of the period adapted with the world time system by Louis Cottier himself.
Many of the finest and rarest specimens of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches are now held by world-renowned international collectors and museums, each year fewer and fewer of the great classic references of the mid-20th century reach the open market. It is therefore an event of major significance when a truly stellar Patek Philippe legend returns to auction after long residing in such a private collection. This handmade product of the greatest minds and artistically talented craftsmen and women of the time is one of only three Patek Philippe reference 2523J HU DE to be made with a cloisonné enamel map dial depicting ‘Eurasia’ known to still exist today. Of the two other known examples, one is part of the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, the other now in a private collection.
One of the undisputed giants among all vintage Patek Philippe complicated wristwatches, this historic world time watch has an immense status even amongst the ultra-rare two crown world time model. Christie’s is incredibly honoured to be able to offer this reference 2523 here at auction for the first time in over 20 years since its last public appearance in 2002. Its ultra exclusivity and desirability is further enhanced by its spectacular beauty and overall condition.
Every cloisonné dial two-crown reference 2523 is an ultimate world-class rarity, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Combining the highest degree of scarcity with the beauty and permanence of grand feu enamel artistry and the confident simplicity of 1950s design, the present reference 2523 ‘Eurasia’ represents perhaps the only remaining chance to obtain one of these masterworks from the ‘golden age’ of Patek Philippe wristwatches. It can be said without exaggeration that this watch would be a sensational centrepiece for any important international collection.
Reference 2523 was made in very small numbers indeed, a total of only 26 examples were ever made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold. About a dozen examples were fitted with cloisonné dials, and of those, only three including the present watch are known with the continent of ‘Europe’ map, called ‘Eurasia’ by collectors.
The Three Known Reference 2523 with Cloisonné Dial ‘Eurasia’
Movement no. 720’301, case no. 306’193 – Phillips Geneva, May 2021
Movement no. 720’303, case no. 306’197 – Patek Philippe Museum
Movement no. 720’304, case no. 306’201 – The Present Watch
A Detailed Study of the Present Watch
The Dial
Made circa 1952, by Stern Frères. The world time dial bears the names of 41 cities in French. The cloisonné enamel map can be attributed to Marguerite Koch and represents the very best in artisan handcrafts of the time. Every cloisonné enamel dial, even those of identical pattern or theme are unique works of art, differing from one another because the enamel artist created each dial by eye and the enamel colours can also vary in tone due to the slight variations in temperature during firing, for instance some blues are more sparkling and yellows more intense.
The Case
No. 306’201, made in 1954-55, by Antoine Gerlach, Geneva master casemaker whose mark of a number 4 in a key is punched inside the caseback. Well preserved with clearly visible sharp hallmarks, the lugs maintain sharp edges, as does the bezel which is correctly numbered with the last three digits of the case number ‘201’. The polishing and satiné brushing to the case has been refreshed at some time in the past. The two crowns made of solid 18k gold by Boninchi Frères, are original. The winding crown is larger.
The Movement
No. 720’304, made in 1953, calibre 12 400 HU (Heures Universelles) with Cottier’s dial modification; monometallic balance, swan-neck micrometer regulator. The calibre 12 400, evolved from the calibre 12 120, it was made from 1950 and was numbered from 720’000 to 729’999. It was the best 12’’’ calibre with subsidiary seconds of its time with 18 jewels and 18’000 oscillations.
The World Time System
The revolutionary world time system - or ‘Heures Universelles’ was designed and patented in the early 1930s by legendary watchmaker Louis Cottier (1884-1966). Patek Philippe immediately saw its potential and commissioned Cottier with the development and production of a series of ‘World Time’ watches.
The world time mechanism of the reference 2523 is a functional complication that is simple to calibrate. One must first set the local or mean time by the crown at 3 o'clock (the 24 hour ring will revolve in the opposite direction of the hands). Then the outer ring is adjusted by turning the crown at 9 o'clock until one's current global location is indicated at the 12 o'clock position. Once this is calibrated, the relative time of each world location is set. The two-tone 24-hour ring indicates world locations that are in night time by the grey section and daytime by the silvered section.
History of the Reference 2523 HU, 1953-1957
Ref. 2523 HU (Heures Universelles) was launched in 1953, produced in replacement of the former ref. 1415 HU (1939-1954).
Louis Cottier, a Geneva watchmaker who invented the ‘World Time’ system in the mid 1930s, delivered around 45 modified caliber “12 400” movements to Patek Philippe gradually from 1953 until 1965; the calibre 12 400, becoming 12 400 HU with Cottier’s modification. It is thought that in total only 26 watches were cased with ref. 2523, 18 in yellow gold, 7 in pink gold, 1 white gold. Even though ref. 2523 was listed and sold until the mid-1960’s, the 25 yellow or pink gold cases were ordered between 1953 and 1954 and the only white gold known in 1955. The yellow and pink cases were gradually delivered to Patek until 1957. After 1957, 20 more ref. 2523-1, with less prominent lugs, were made, about the same case distribution ratio. The tree-piece cases of the ref 2523 and 2523-1 (35.5mm diam.) were all made by Antoine Gerlach. The dials were made by Stern Frères, in particular the outer world time ring, and the decorated centre of the dial by superb enamel artists such as Nelly Richard or Marguerite Koch, both working almost exclusively for the Stern dial company. The ref. 2523 was usually produced with enamel dial decoration, translucent or cloisonné, or with a metal dial. Oppositely, ref. 2523-1 was made only with a metal dial.
The Cloisonné Dial
Cloisonné enamel dials quite naturally take a prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship and rarity. Highly detailed and made by the very best enamel artists of the period, cloisonné enamel dials can be found decorated with other popular subjects such as tropical oasis, sail boats, flowers, portraits and maps. The dial maker Stern Frères supplied most of the great watch houses. The production of these solid gold dials was extremely costly as they had to be individually made by a skilled craftsman and not on a production line. The artist created the outline of the desired motif by arranging thin gold wires on a dial. These partitions, called ‘cloisons’ in French, were filled with small quantities of enamel powder in the desired colour. The dial was then fired in an oven at around 900 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it was hand-polished until a perfectly flat surface was obtained. Hand-made by celebrated enamel artists, notably Nelly Richard and Marguerite Koch, these dials can be regarded as unique works of art in their own right.
Vintage cloisonné dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is softer and more tonal than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
PROVENANCE
1955: The original owner.
1999: Antiquorum, Geneva.
2002: Antiquorum, Geneva.
2002-2012: An important American Collection.
2012: An important South East Asian Collection.
Literature:
Four ref. 2523 are displayed in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.
Ref. 2523 watches are illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, 1998 edition, pp. 240 to 242.
Other examples are illustrated in: Patek Philippe Museum book, 2014 edition, Volume 2, pp.345 & 346.
Ref. 2523 watches are illustrated in: Blue Book 2, Eric Tortella, 2019 edition, pp. 354 to 399.